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58 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine Hungry EyE Albacore Tuna Crudo at Central Provisions awakens the senses with color texture and flavor. kins at Eventide too. Theres a club-beat soundtrack just this side of too loud and the servers are in constant motion deliver- ing small plates from the kitchen out back. E ventides lobster rolls sell like hot- cakes and theyre fantastic. Oys- ters are lined up in a crushed-ice sink set into the bar their origins labeled on vertical popsicle-stick markers. The menu has versions of tuna and golden snapper crudo and a halibut tartare. The chalkboard has a raw skate wing special. We go for the Char Tartare. Ive had it its so good our bartender says. Shes right this special is a winner. Gleaming half-inch cubes of translucent fish are garnished with a few shreds of pickled red onion and a couple of exotic skinny white mushrooms. Theres a thin squirt of a pale green tamarind-tinged aioli separating the tartare from what at first appear to be crumbled frazzled shallot shreds but turn out to be bacon crumbs. Who thinks this stuff up Once again see under James Beard Award nomi- nees. Eventides Mike Wiley and An- monthly magazine kins at Eventide too. Theres a club-beat soundtrack just this side of too loud and the servers are in constant motion deliver- fromTopJoaquinmallmannCoreyTempleTon