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Hungry EyE 60 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine fromtopmeaghanmauriceJoaquinmallmann drew Taylor are short-listed for Best Chef Northeast this year. original Masters Ifyouloverawandunusualcoldseafoodyoure alsoconversantwithsushirestaurants. Step into Benkays congenial palace on the corner of Commercial and India streets and leave behind the insistent beat of the Old Port. Here is order and symmetry red- cushioned bar stools chairs tables and ta- bleware neatly aligned. Every seat has a view out into the harbor. A nkimomonkfish liveris one of those delicacies like uni and eel that gives sushi places their exotic edge. The liver is cooked in a cylinder and then chilled and sliced. At Benkay three pink slices stand upright in each of two no- ri-circled rice segments. Ankimo is the foie gras of the sea firm but tender silken in tex- ture subtly briney and not at all fishy. Theres pickled ginger alongside but no wasabi. Instead tiny cubes of what looks like beef consomme are placed artfully over the ankimo. Ponzu jelly the server murmurs. gallic charM Part of the bistro experience is pageant- ry says Michelle Corry who owns Pe- tite Jacqueline on State Street with her chef husband Steve. Petites Eiffel Tower of Sea- food is a big seller in the summer. The tow- er is filled with oysters and littlenecks on the half-shell and cold cocktail shrimp. Steamed and chilled lobster tails are dressed with mayo shallots and fine herbs. Unique vessels and service points are traditionally French. For example snails in their shells and the iconic French on- ion soup bowls. Its fun and festive and a big part of the bistro experience is the so- cial aspect sharing dishes such as fondue and raclette. Shes right. Bright fresh shellfish arrayed on crushed ice in a tower of trays can make even a rainy day just a little bit wonderful. n The sushi masters at Benkay on In- dia Street create seafood sculpture. Eventides crudo is always prettily presented and precisely garnished.