December 2018 | view this story as a .pdf

As we move from temperate autumn to freezing winter, the beer styles du jour change with our wardrobes.

By Josh Christie

Out is the easy-drinking fare of summer; bye to hefeweizens, light lagers, and fruity wheat beers. This season, we say hello to the burlier side of the brewing spectrum, where beers that are dark in color and high in alcohol reign. Here in Portland, these seasonal brews are starting to pop up, ready to help us through the short, cold days of winter.

Trashmaster, 9.5 percent ABV, is an imperial stout. Coffee, raisin, chocolate, and licorice flavors abound in a warming ale, capped with a dry and boozy finish.

Samara Brown isn’t your typical brown ale. Brewed with locally roasted Bard Coffee and maple syrup from Merrifield Farm, the imperial brown plays sweetness and bitterness off one another to great effect. And, at 7 percent ABV, just a pint will warm you up on the coldest winter days.

Atlantis, 5.3 percent ABV, is a black ale. While you might expect the rich, roasted flavors of a porter or stout from a beer this dark, the profile is surprisingly tropical—juicy and citrusy, thanks to a blend of Cascade, Centennial, Magnum, and Citra hops. A hint of cherrywood smoke makes it a fitting beer to sip in front of a fire.

Winter IPA, 6.2 percent ABV, stands out in the field of local seasonals by bucking the dark beer trend. Instead, the beer is a New England-style IPA of the type you see around town throughout the year. Hazy and juicy, it’s a bright counterpoint to the cold weather and dark days. The brewery rotates four seasonal India Pale Ales through its portfolio, and Winter is the strongest, punchiest one of the bunch—appropriate for a season that tests Mainers’ mettle.

Neverender, a seasonal Double IPA, is hopped with Australian hops (Galaxy and Topaz). It’s a juicy, hazy beer loaded with tropical flavor and aromatics. Pineapple and grapefruit flavors shine through, and perfect balance makes for a surprisingly easy-drinking beer at 8 percent ABV. 

Christmas Ale, 6.2 percent ABV, has been a Portland staple for decades and heralds the start of the holiday season. A traditional ESB (Extra Special Bitter), Christmas Ale balances classic English flavors with earthy hops and a fruity body. Thankfully, the ESB forgoes the addition of spices and other adjuncts that flavor many holiday beers—nothing but grain, hops, water and yeast.

Forge, 10 percent ABV, a jet black Russian Imperial Stout, balances its chocolate and roast malt flavors with a shot of citrusy hops. It’s a smooth-yet-bracing beer fresh, but also holds up well to a few years aging in a beer cellar.