Rare Medium, Well Done
Stake your claim–or claim your steak–at the newest hot spot at Wells Beach.
reviewed by Diane Hudson – SumerGuide 2008
Lots of places call themselves “steakhouses,” but Wells Beach Steakhouse gives even the famous chain of Ruth’s Chris Steak Houses a run–with the bonus of a great view. Featuring the finest steaks and other all-natural prime cuts of meat such as pork and veal, this is a meat-lovers’ paradise with prices commensurate with the dazzling quality: a 12-ounce Filet Mignon, for example, is $39; a 24-ounce T-Bone is $48; 20 ounces of Twin Prime Veal Chops are $32; and a 20-ounce Bone-in Ribeye, $44.
Aficionados here have been quick to discover the $36 prix fixe menu, with the happy addition of a $20 optional wine pairing. An incredible bargain, this includes an appetizer, salad, entrée, sauces, sides (potato or vegetable), and dessert.
Straightaway we tore into the splendid Oysters Rockefeller appetizer (two prix fixe, four separately at $11). Stuffed with creamed spinach, Pernod, and Gruyere, and finished with wasabi tobiko caviar, these Maryland Blue Points were so rich we didn’t need the larger order–especially since we also shared a generous bowl of one of the finest classic French onion soups we’ve had in years, topped with a gorgeous Gruyere, parmegiano, and emmentaler crust ($7).
It’s hard to beat the classic wedge ($8), half a head of iceberg lettuce covered with a delicious mix of applewood smoked bacon, dried cranberries, candied walnuts, and blue cheese dressing. Also appealing was the WB Steakhouse salad–romaine and baby lettuce, tomato, English cucumbers, croutons, and pomegranate vinaigrette ($7).
Our entrées were cooked to order to mouthwatering perfection. My New York Strip (10 ounces), char-broiled rare with lots of juice, was as flavorful as it gets, with my partner’s huge veal chop the same. The Hollandaise sauce (also try the au poivre, teriyaki, and sweet Thai chili) was sensuously satisfying–a fantastic complement to the steak fries, meats, and garlic-olive-oil smashed potatoes. As the sides are enormous, we recommend sharing a potato and one of the four-star vegetable dishes such as fresh broccoli au gratin or creamed spinach. The crispy thin-cut onion rings look equally tantalizing.
Did we mention they serve two- to three-pound lobsters here? The world-famous 28-ounce Wells Beach martini?
Just try and skip dessert. Beckoning from the tray of dreamy delights are apple pie, blueberry cheesecake, chocolate truffle, chocolate mousse, fudge brownie with strawberry, and raspberry tapioca. The apple pie was summertime soothing, while the truffles–two of them–were a perfect finish, savored with a few remaining sips of our bottle of 4 Vines, Maverick, Lodi, CA 05 Zinfandel ($30).
Wells Beach Steakhouse, 73 Mile Road, Wells.
646-2252 or www.wellsbeachsteakhouse.com
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