reviewed by Diane Hudson WinterGuide 2003
Venezia Ristorante in Bridgton (45 minutes from Portland on Route 302), a landmark for skiers since 1989, provides the perfect apres ski experience just 18 miles from the slopes. Chef Joe Fabiano describes the area as “reminiscent of my father’s hometown, rural and mountainous,” and he and his family have succeeded in bringing a piece of Italy to Venezia and those of us lucky enough to savor its authtentic and lovingly craftcd offerings.
We knew we were in for a flavorfiil event from our first tti.ste of the Chicken Tortellini soup (S4.95). Homemade is the word that comes to mind, and that includes the cheese tortellini. Most of the pasta is made from scratch here, and as for the soup, Fabiano says “it’s nots something you can do in 10 minutes.” He cooks the “whole chicken for hours until it is falling off the bone” and the combination oftlie broth with Romano cheese and marinara sauce gives it a robust and deeply satisfying taste and texture.
The ultimate Insalata is antipasto, and we couldn’t resist the Antipasto Venezia ($5.95 small, $9.95 large). A gorgeous, generous plate topped with prosciutto, provolone, artichoke, eggplant, olives, tomato, lettuce, onions, anchovies, and pepper delighted all the senses Venezia’s entrees, many and varied, consist of six offerings in each of five categories: vitello (veal); pasta; pesce (fish); pollo (chicken); and bistecca (steak).
As the choices are enormous and all inviting, I was pleased to have had Venezia’s Veal Scaloppini Piccata ($18.95), recommended by a trusted fellow food-lover prior to our visit. Tender as butter and subtle in seasoning, Sauteed in white wine and lemon butter with mushrooms and capers, this dish is decidedly good. The veal of choice here, Fabiano carefully points out, is Provini veal. “We have to go to Boston to get that; you can’t get it in Maine. But there is no better veal.” The ziti accompaniment was lightly covered in an excellent marinara sauce. “I make my sauces in small pans, like my mother does, explains Fabiano. “If you use those big restaurant pans it doesn’t cook consistently throughout.” My partner’s choice, Fettuccine Alfredo ($13.95), was rich with an extraordinary depth ot flavor. The secret? Romano cheese, grated fresh for earl1 dish. And tlie fact tliat individual attention is paramount at Venezia, seating being limited to about 30. If you have a hankering for any special Italian dish, this is the place to get it. Just call ahead for the likes of lobster-stuffed ravioli, soupe pesce, lobster or shrimp fra diavlo, chicken or veal rollatini, white sauce spinach lasagna, or whatever you fancy. The wine list is extensive and reasonable, our choice being a Canalctto Montcpnkiano (S15), and desserts include a delicious spumoni doused with the classic claret sauce ($3.95), Venezia’s own handmade cannoli, a “‘ crisp pastry shell stuffed with y homemade ricotta filling ($4.50) and, of course, their own tiramisu.
Venezia: Maine’s own little Italy. Bellisimo!
Rt 302 Bridgton 207-647-5333
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