reviewed by Diane Hudson – April 2002
Portland’s new El Salvadoran restaurant, Tu Casa on Washington Avenue, is winning a lot of new friends quickly. “Te invitamos a comer sus platos favoritos,” offers Tu Casa’s menu: “We invite you to enjoy your favorite dishes.”
But what should we do if they’re all our favorites?
The Sopa de Pollo, or chicken stew, ($6), is a hearty, flavorful, piping hot deep bowl full of an assortment of goodies. A generous amount of tender chicken in a flavorful, healthful broth is accompanied by fresh green beans, celery, cilantro, baby corn on the cob, and a lime served on the side, halved for seasoning. During our recent visit, the dish was served with two corn tortillas – hot -of a nice thickness and robust in flavor. A superb accompaniment when dipped in the stew’s broth.
We had to try the Pupusas. extra thick corn tortillas fried and filled with cheese and herbs (Pupusa de Queso con loroco, $1 .50) or with meat (Pupusa Revueltas, $1.25). Luscious. This taste is something we’ve never experienced. The texture is soft, and the flavors, for something seemingly so simple, complex. Pupusas are served with crisp greens resembling mayonnaise-free coleslaw for spreading on top, and spicy red and green chili sauces to be poured over all as suits your palate. My partner broke off bites of the lovely little round discs with no accompaniment what-so-ever and was transfixed.
We next tried a chicken vegetable quesadilla with a crisp corn tortilla (it may be ordered with either corn or flour tortilla) and a beef, vegetable, and cheese burrito with a soft, yummy flour tortilla ($4.25). Both are visually striking as well as richly satisfying. The burrito is of a generous size, and its flavors blend perfectly with the Came Asada ($8), a plate of beans and rice and delicately seasoned, tender grilled beef.
Another greatly pleasing entree is the Polio a la Plancha ($7): rice, beans, and a salad with an enormous amount of delicious pressed grilled chicken.
Although there is room for just a few tables inside the modest but comfortable dining area, owner Elinda Albert has added a terrific outdoor deck alongside the restaurant. Offering a good view of the city, lots of sun, and that overall good feeling experienced when eating great food at great prices in a comfortable outdoor selling, this deck is a definite destination tor anyone lucky enough to find out about this very special eatery.
As we are leaving, I mentioned to our server Louis, that we’d never had anything like the Pupusa before. “This is the only Pupuseria in Maine, amigo. The Pupusa is the national dish of EI Salvador.” Our favorite dish? Pupusa perhaps? But we wouldn’t want to miss the Polla a la Plancha, the Came Asada, the refreshing Horchata (spiced rice milk, $2). Licuados de Fesca, o Banana o Morita (strawberry, banana or blueberry smoothies, $2.50), or Flan (caramel egg custard, $2.50)
I guess our favorite would have to be Pupuseria Salvadorena’s sincere and ongoing invitation to enjoy our Platos Favorites!
70 Washington Ave, Portland, ME (207) 828-4971
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