Reviewed by Diane Hudson Feb/Mar 2008
Chef James Tranchemontagne of Uffa! fame revels in a neighborhood dining scene, so, when he moved to Westbrook, he packed up his popular Portland restaurant and took it with him.
Transforming Chicky’s Fine Diner nightclub on Bridge Street, Tranchemontagne has named his new enterprise the “Frog and Turtle”−a marriage of liveliness and leisure−and billed it as a “gastro pub.”
During our recent stop, the joint is jumping. Recent live music performers here, on Fridays from 9 to 11 p.m., include Jenny Woodman, Rachel Griffin, and Adam Waxman. Tonight, Mitch Alden (from “Now is Now”) is onstage with his drummer, Neil Carroll.
First to reach our table is a truly magnificent pâté plate, with homemade pickles, sweet marinated onions, hot mustard, and tasty toast points ($7). Tranchemontagne’s pâté is made with pork, chicken liver, chicken, and a little bacon. It is sautéed in duck fat with onions, garlic, and spices. After it’s cooled, he blends it with more butter and duck fat. “The pickles are a variation from my mother’s recipe,” he says. He strips down the spices to promote and simplify the sweet/sour taste. “This helps the mouth taste the cheese better.”
Next, we dip into full-flavored Red Bliss “Potato Corn Bacon Soup ($7),” robust and unforgettable with Old Smoke House bacon. From our first spoonful it’s obvious that soups are going to be celebrities here. The menu also features chicken vegetable ($7) and inviting homemade seafood chowder ($9).
For entreés, I enjoy a perfectly seared duck breast ($17) with mashed potatoes and a rich very berry blackberry merlot reduction that is close-your-eyes wonderful.
My partner devours a pleasing portion of classic fish and chips ($17). The crispy, non-greasy coating lends sizzle and snap to the fish, which arrives in such generous proportions that the dish overflows. The inclusion of shrimp in this traditional dish tickles us–their texture is perfect for dipping into Tranchemontagne’s specialty sauce while we drink in the music.
Our dessert is a delicious finale to the evening: an assorted cheese plate, featuring Camembert from Silver Moon Creamery, a smooth goat cheese from Heart Song Farm, and Berkshire blue cheese, all served with apples, Gardiner’s Honey of Maine, a balsamico (vinaigrette), nuts, and toast points.
Oh yes, as this is a pub, there are lots of creative cocktails as well as good wines and beers to be enjoyed. Foxbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, at $5 per elegant glass, pairs with our dinners nicely. Or try “The Swamp” if you dare.
The Frog and Turtle, 3 Bridge Street, Westbrook, 591-4185. Open Tues. to Sun., 4 to 9, and Sun. brunch, 9 to 1 p.m. www.thefrogandturtle.com
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