reviewed by Diane Hudson Nov. 2004
What to do if you own the legendary The Goldenrod luncheonette in York Beach? You guessed it! You wait 100 years and then come from out of nowhere to launch the most delicious steak restaurant Maine’s ever seen at the site of the former Cape Neddick Inn.
Because the new Talpey’s Tavern in York is exactly that, serving the best prime rib we’ve had in ages. We predict Talpey’s will become the place to go for steak, as well.
Extremely reasonable prices, extraordinarily generous portions, an attractive and eclectic assortment of cuts of meat, terrific service and presentation, and a flair for cooking the meat truly åas ordered’ contribute to the absolutely satisfying dining experience. We think these traits will also contribute to Talpey’s immediate success.
The wine list is thoughtful, varied, and offers reasonably priced selections. The Darien Rioja at $18 is an outstanding bargain, as is the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ Cabernet Sauvignon at $68. In an atmosphere conducive to festive occasions, champagne offerings include Moet & Chandon White Star ($60) and Cristalino Cava Brut ($16.50, or $5.95 a glass), and there is an ample selection of draught beers including Bass, Newcastle, Sam Adams, and Shipyard ($3.95)
Our dinner began with Chef’s Soup of the Day ($4.95), a big bowl of full-bodied chicken tortellini with big chunks of chicken, delicious pasta, and a nice basket of bread.
There are alluring non-steak offerings here, too-notably Slow-Roasted Half Chicken at $12.99, Maine Lobster Pie at $22.99, and Jumbo Baked Stuffed Prawns at $16.99-but we determined immediately that we had found a steak-lovers oasis. Aged and hand-cut on premises, selections include House Top Sirloin ($18.95), Filet Mignon ($23.99), Petite Filet ($16.99), London Broil ($13.99), Porterhouse ($24.99), Pan Seared Sirloin Tips ($14.99), Delmonico ($19.99), Steak au Poivre ($20.99), and New York Sirloin ($20.99).
My partner ordered the special of the evening, the Prime Rib ($17.99), and I settled on the Delmonico. Our cuts were perfectly, and we mean perfectly, cooked. The steak fries are wide and wonderful; the salad and vegetables, included in the price, superb.
The deep-dish Maine wild blueberry pie, served warm with vanilla ice cream ($5.95), was the perfect finish. Talpey’s is worth the drive, especially during this season of greatly reduced Route One traffic. It’s a whole new way to “go south” this winter. Leave it to the folks at the Goldenrod to come up with a brand new twist.
Talpey’s Tavern, 1233 Route 1, York, 351-1145.
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