November 2015 | view this story as a .pdf

Zip up your fleece, grab the dog, and hit the trails.

By Molly Parent

Maine autumn–temperatures with mood swings, mums, jewel-toned foliage–catches us off guard every year. Seasonal wonders have a short shelf-life, so we must get out there and grab them. Seek a path. While it may seem as though the Forest City is more brick than forest, it’s actually home to 60 urban trails. Discovering them has been an eye-opener for me. Come and see.

Capisic Brook Trail

“I found some raspberries here the other day,” says Paige Button, Portland’s recently appointed full-time park ranger, who joins us at Capisic Brook Trail. Measuring just half a mile, this walk passes through Capisic Park, an 18-acre, city-owned nature preserve that contains Portland’s largest freshwater pond. There are entrances on the north end of Capisic Street and from Rockland Avenue. “It’s a great trail for a quick break,” Button says. “I often eat my lunch here.” As we walk from the dirt path to stomped-down grass, the pond seems to grow as we approach. Though all the city’s hikes are owned by Portland Trails, a non-profit land trust, Button and another part-time ranger patrol the areas for the department of Public Services. “My office is actually in Evergreen Cemetery,” she says. As we complete the short walk to the pond’s edge–including a few side paths Button recommends–we encounter dogs off-leash with their owners. A yellow lab repeatedly brings us his stick, while a wolfhound mix approaches us and receives a greeting from Button–“I remember seeing you before!”–as he sniffs around. Dogs have proven to be the biggest wild card the rangers encounter on all the trails, as leash laws aren’t always followed–or even known.

Fore River Sanctuary

Not far from Capisic is the Fore River Sanctuary, 85 acres with a two-mile trail through marshy lowlands and wooded uplands. Enter the south end of the sanctuary from the corner of Frost and Congress streets, or the north end near Jewell Falls by taking Brighton Avenue to Rowe or Hillcrest avenues.

This particular hike I take un-Button-ed though she’s identified it as a favorite of Portlanders. Crossing the first wooden bridge into the sanctuary, it’s easy to see why. Salt and freshwater meet at the marshes, providing habitat for wildlife–I spot a blue heron poking her way through the marsh. Signs along the way comment that these lowlands were once the site of the former Cumberland and Oxford Canals that went all the way to Sebago Lake; grown-over canal beds and towpaths are evidence of this. Further along, I ascend to the forested uplands, cross railroad tracks, and at last reach the gem of the sanctuary–Jewell Falls, Portland’s only natural waterfall. A bridge at the height of the falls delivers a breathtaking view.

Riverton Trolley Park

Next stop, follow Forest Avenue to Riverside Street and the ghostly remains of Riverton Trolley Park. From 1896 to 1920, the park was a destination for city-dwellers and at one time featured an outdoor amphitheater, croquet court, boat rides, a trout pond, a rustic casino building by John Calvin Stevens, and scenic pathways. Little remains now of this enchantment, save the vague layout of an amphitheater and grand, crumbling stone steps that once welcomed visitors. Photographic images of Riverton’s former glory are spread along the two-mile loop trail, allowing hikers a glimpse into the past as they walk through the present. “It’s my favorite of the trails,” says Button. “The history still blows my mind.”

Fort Sumner Park

Also known as Standpipe Park, or the Top of the World, this small green space opens up to a huge universe of urban panorama. From the East End’s commercial district, a steep climb up stone steps leads to what could very well be one of the finest views Portland offers. Visit at sunset as the day’s last rays hit the peninsula’s tallest buildings or glitter in Back Cove, and perhaps even catch sight of the White Mountains.

Thirsty? Try the urban hike known as Congress Street, and make an evening of it. As the days grow shorter–and colder–explore a different kind of trail the city is lucky to have. You might start at Lolita for a tapa, or Blue Spoon for wine time. Make your descent down into the Arts district. Consider a cocktail at 555 lounge, or a brew and some fancy fries at Nosh. To really cover this trail, you’ll want to cross High Street, which makes a stop at Congress Bar & Grill a possibility. Once you cross State Street, you have the temptations of Local 188 and Hot Suppa. Your final destination might be  the brick-walled, candle-lit Bramhall, or, if you’ve held off and are now famished, draw your finish line at Salvage BBQ. Riff as necessary. The best hikes are what you bring to them.

Comments or questions about this story? Email us now!