Dok Mali walks the walk to Bangkok.

By Diane Hudson

The second we walk into Dok Mali on India Street, wek now we’re part of a fun crowd.

For diners who dare to drink a Thai Long Island Iced Tea ($15), the cognac, dark rum, and brown sugar bourbon are smooth and mingle easily. My companion’s Spicy Lemongrass Margarita ($14) gets a “Wow, it’s got the perfect heat!”

The Dumpling Flight ($24) we begin with is genius. Two pieces of seven varieties arrive displayed in an attractive woven bowl. The fresh, earthy flavors of the Veggie + Edamame (steamed) and the Chive (deep fried) are welcome surprises. The sweet and spicy notes and varied textures of the pan-fried Pork + Zucchini, Shrimp + Pork, Pork Gyoza, and the steamed Kanom Jeeb (Thai chicken dumplings) and Vegetable are just as stimulating to the palate.

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