May 2019

Sneak out to Kennebunkport—on the rocks.

By Colin W. Sargent

The dining room of Ocean at Cape Arundel Inn and Resort

To find “Ocean,” the splendid waterfront restaurant at the Cape Arundel Inn and Resort, aim your spyglass between Spouting Rock and Blowing Cave (or simply set your navigator to 208 Ocean Avenue). May is the perfect pre-season time to slip in here. There are no bad seats.

“It’s like sitting in a canvas seascape,” my wife says. To the left is Walker’s Point at twilight. Every once in a while, headlights tunnel into the dark as automobiles travel along the shore ahead. Beyond that are roses, rocks, and the inky beginnings of a perfect evening.

She orders the Ocean Avenue ($15): “Cold River Gin, St. Germaine, fresh lemon juice, and sparkling rose,” which gives the drink its soft, bewitching shade. I try a sip. Coy but to the point, smart but not too sweet. I answer with a glass of 2013 Bodegas Salentein “Killka” Malbec ($12) from Mendoza, Argentina—macho and memorable.

The appetizers are showstoppers, especially the Lobster Thermidor ($19): “globe artichokes, trumpet royale, English mustard cream, black truffle, Parmigiano gratin.” This deconstructed variation with the artichoke, roasted with Parmigiano and stuffed with delicious fresh lobster meat into the full length half shell of a “chicken” (or one-pound) lobster, reminds us of romantic dinners in Rome and shows the extreme creativity of executive chef Justin Owen, a real Mainer who was “recently promoted after working for at least five years as sous chef under chef Pierre Gignac,” we hear when we enquire. Wow. Tom Brady was an understudy once, too!

Let’s calibrate this against time. This is the best food I’ve ever had at this lovely inn, and I’ve come here for decades—with my bride, my father, my in-laws, for birthdays, and for at least two Easters. Our other appetizer, Beet “Carpaccio,” ($15), also hits the spot, exactingly presented with “salt roasted red beets, confit yellow beets, pistachio, goat cheese beignet, and spring onion foam.”

Feeling lucky, I order the Swordfish ($36): “seared loin, crispy calamari, cauliflower purée, capers, anchovies, olives, pine nuts, piquillo pepper compote.” The Italian twist excites again. Who knew that anchovies are an absolute necessity with swordfish! We also ordered the Beef Steak ($40): “prime Colorado grilled striploin, red wine braised oxtail, asparagus, Lyonnaise potatoes, red wine jus.” The interior is perfectly pink, the exterior crispy and close-your-eyes delicious.

By now, we’re careening with superlatives. As great as the view is, it’s the food that’s the ne plus ultra, transporting us all the way to the coffee and dessert we share, Chocolate Gateau ($10): “caramel, hazelnut, espresso ice cream.” Congrats, Justin Owen! You’re one to ‘follow.’ 

Ocean, 208 Ocean Avenue, Kennebunkport. Summer hours: Sun.-Sat.; happy hour 3 p.m. – 5 p.m., dinner 5 p.m. – 9 p.m. 855-346-5700.