Having suffered and resurrected recently from a devastating fire, Slates Restaurant in Hallowell is going stronger than ever. A magnet to travelers for over 25 years, the food here is simply splendid, and the welcoming warmth of the colorful upbeat interior and superb staff truly memorable.

Deciding on a gorgeous drive along the Kennebec and spectacular Merrymeeting Bay, we opted for a daylight stop to gorge ourselves on the immensely popular brunch fare, available on weekends (10 a.m. to 2 p.m.). This way, our visit allowed us time to peruse the antique shops, book stores, and galleries that abound on the pretty downtown street laden with architectural gems, not to mention the Maine State Museum, just a few minutes away.

Daytime libations include a luscious Bloody Mary, but, seduced by an attractive and affordable wine list, we settled on Astica Malbec ($5.50/$16.50), reasonably smooth and a good accompaniment to our hearty brunch selections.

Swimming in an excellent Bearnaise sauce, my grilled flat-iron steak ($16) and accompanying salad of organic greens and veggies with a rich creamy blue cheese dressing were just what I’d hoped for, and more. Adding a side of garlic roasted potatoes–crispy outside with a soft, tasty middle–sent me into brunch heaven.

My partner meanwhile luxuriated over his perfectly crisped croissant with bacon, tomato, and hot jack cheese ($10), served with a good Caesar salad (included with his croissant order), loaded with succulent grilled shrimp ($4).

We’ll be back for other Slates favorites including huevos rancheros, country chicken pie, quiche of the day, whole-wheat scrambled egg burrito with salsa and sour cream (all $10) or grilled salmon with hollandaise, blackened haddock with jalapeño mayo, or French Maine crabcakes with herb citrus aioli ($13.50 to $15). Also offered: a great variety of croissants, Benedicts, French toast, pancakes, and omelets.

Satiated (stuffed, I should say) and ready to leave, I succumbed to my partner’s suggestion that we share a dish of homemade vanilla ice cream with a rich hot fudge sauce. A good idea, and an excellent finish to a bountiful brunch at this gutsy Maine landmark. “About 75 percent of us before the fire–core people, cooks and senior waitpersons–are back,” says manager Dottie Galley. “Now we have a totally new and well equipped kitchen, wheelchair access, new heating and air-conditioning…oh, and our floors are level!”

Reservations suggested.

Slates Restaurant, 167 Water Street, Hallowell. Dinner Monday to Saturday, lunch Tuesday to Friday, brunch Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 622-9575