¡Ah recuerdo! A jolt of sensations from Puerto Rico brings a fresh sense of “old” to Exchange Street at Papi.

By Nancy English

What a relief, just in time for summer! This cocktail Hot ’n’ Sucio (Hot & Dirty, $14) is a shock at first

sip, spicy with aji amarillo (yellow chili) paste, and sour with caper brine, and fierce, an elixir to bolster anyone’s day, a fantastic detour from dominant sugar. Drops of avocado oil enhance the heat.

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