reviewed by Diane Hudson Dec 2003
“Saeng is Thai for sun,” our energetic young server exclaims when asked how Saeng Thai restaurant, new on 267 St. John Street, got its name. If so, with its zesty flavors and upbeat tempo, it’s the perfect antidote for sunlight deficit disorder in these dark winter days.
For starters, we enjoved Saeng Thai Dumpling ($3.75), four intensely flavored steamed dumplings stuffed generously with shrimp and chicken. Served with a pungent dipping sauce and bright crunchy salad vegetables, the dumplings were decorated with delicately carved carrot rosettes and butterflies. The Pak Tod ($3.95) vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower, carrot, and green beans) deep fried in an amazingly light tempura batter was complimented nicely by an elegant sweet plum sauce. Topping this off with refreshing Tom Yam Koong ($2.50), a stunning clear soup with four large shrimp, mushrooms, lemon grass, and scallions, we wondered, “How can they afford to be so generous?”
While happily sipping Black Swan Shiraz ($14.95) selected from a small but decent and nicely priced wine menu, our culinary delights continued. From the chalkboard specials we selected the soft-shell crab ($10.95). Magnificent! Again, amazing value. This delicacy consists of two large, salty sweet, tender, crispy crabs, served with an array of colorful stir-fried vegetables in a mouth-watering sauce. As thisdish and our other entree, the Tamarind Duck ($10.95), are served with rice and my partner prefers noodles, we ordered a noodle dish, without meat or fish. Drunken Noodles ($5.95) was the unexpected hit of the evening, the noodles being wide and flat, full of intricate seasonings and sporting a good amount of fresh Thai basil. Thoroughly addicting, And the duck! Roasted to perfection and an immense portion, the tender meat blended well with tastv pineapple chunks, ginger, and ample veggies including snow peas, red and green peppers, scallions, and a really savory tamarind sauce.
Our winter is not one of discontent, there being so much more to try at Saeng Thai.
267 St John Street, Portland 773-8988
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