April 2013

A sleek, stylish Thai restaurant takes off in Boston’s South End thanks to the talent and hospitality of a daring Rangeley chef and his daughter.

By Colin S. Sargent

Equator glows from its trendy South End digs at 1721 Washington Street in Boston, a beacon to Mainers. On this spot, restaurateur Sarah Sriweawnetr (daughter to Rangeley chef Sam Sriweawnetr, the real-life hero behind Ben Affleck’s Oscar-winner Argo [see our story, WinterGuide 2013]) has launched her dream with investment from her dad.

Dreaming of summer on a recent evening, we did our very best to order just what Sam might have cooked the nights he helped hide six American diplomats in Tehran 34 years ago after their escape from the besieged embassy. (These days, Sam owns and operates Thai Blossom restaurant in Rangeley.)

Ice-cold bottled Singha beer from Thailand provides the perfect way for our party of three to cool down a basil kick. Fusion reigns as we jump into the Equator Combo ($15.95), chicken satay, golden bags, spring rolls, crab shumai, winter shrimp, and vegetable tempura. We add a second order of  spring rolls ($6.95) to prevent any unfair division. All of the appetizers are perfectly cooked, crispy without being crunchy. The spring rolls in particular burst with the original flavors of the vegetables, just spicy enough on the inside to taste.

When Sarah tells us the sauce on the pad thai ($10.95) is made with her father’s special recipe, developed while working culinary assignments for diplomats around the world (which was how he was in a position to be our man in Tehran in 1979 in the first place), how can we prevent ourselves from taking part? For a second entree, we enjoy the Spicy Combo ($12.95), a stir fry with vegetables, beef, chicken, and pork, and for something cooler, the Yum Nua ($13.95)–beef salad with a delicious hint of lime.

“My father had a hand in designing Equator’s entire menu,” says Sarah. “There’s a deep sense of his talent in the Avocado Shrimp, that’s made with red curry sauce on jumbo shrimp and grilled avocado. I can’t look at it without thinking of him.” Though Sarah’s eclectic pan-Asian theme is the secret to her success, reaching all the way to Korean cuisine and original specialties such as  Sam’s Avocado Shrimp and Tamarind Duck, “the Thai cuisine and the prime South End location” are at the heart of this family business.

Equator delivers to all major downtown hotels. We recommend Argo on demand.

Equator, 1721 Washington Street, Boston, MA 617-536-6386 www.equatorrestaurantma.com