An Italian Dream

Let the rich flavors of this cucina italiana enchant you.

By Colin W. Sargent

Let’s start with an insider tip. The best vantage point in Ports of Italy is from Table 57. Try not to enjoy yourself as you settle into the extreme back corner booth, encircled by the Kennebunk River. From this perch on the banquette, you can view the swirl of activity in the restaurant and everyone approaching you. At the same time, you’re close enough to enjoy the dancing flames from the gas stove. Just as future President John F. Kennedy picked Table 40 at the Parker House in Boston the night he proposed to Jackie, so would he choose Table 57 for romance here.

The Prez wouldn’t mind the valet parking, either, which is free with a tip. No circling of the block. You own this town.

To launch the evening, we start with a fun Sicilian Zest cocktail (Fabrizia blood orange, lime, tequila, and “a splash of soda,” $12) and a glass of Super Tuscan Monte Antico–earthy, spicy, and famous for its “dry finish” ($9). The salt around the rim of the Sicilian Zest glass counterpoints its sweetness. The Monte Antico is so yummy we order more to sip through dinner.

The Caesar Salad ($14) is sensuous, deep, and chewy with fresh-baked focaccia bread croutons and heavenly parmesan. The Burrata ($15) is a chamber-music collaboration of “soft-center artisanal mozzarella cheese, heirloom tomatoes, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.” The tomatoes are perfect, the cheese fluffy as clouds. These two salads are so vivid they induce a kind of craziness; viz. we start talking about a timeshare in Naples, Italy, or buying a studio apartment with views of Vesuvius. Looking across at the other diners, we sense that many more here are ‘traveling’ as they dine. It’s quite the bistro that transports you this far.

Our entrees are the Pesce Spada ($33)—terrific fresh swordfish with spinach, tomatoes, artichokes, and salsa verde—and Pollo alla Diavola, the real surprise and a guilty pleasure. This grilled, spatchcocked chicken under a brick is so fantastic–crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside, marinated in citrus, succulent with Calabrese chili-aioli, and served with crispy potatoes that are fluffy on the inside—that we pass it back and forth, singing its praises. Nota bene: the Contorni of “Asparagi Parmigiana” ($7) with “butter and parmesan cheese,” proves a perfect diversion.

Two cappuccinos and a drive under the stars along the curving beaches complete a memorable evening. 

Ports of Italy, open Mon. through Thurs. from 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m, Fri.  through Sat. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Sun. from 10:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m., 5:00 p.m.-9:00 p.m. 4 Western Ave., Kennebunk, 204-0365.