September 2011

¡Holy Mole!

Pedro’s brings a piquant-touch to Kennebunk.

Never thought I’d go to Kennebunk’s Lower Village to get my mojito on, but there it is, a delight to behold at Pedro’s, the new high-concept Mexican watering hole smack dab in the middle of the most ‘New England’ of towns.

The brain child of Pete Morency and wife Kate, owners of Pier 77 and The Ramp in Cape Porpoise, Pedro’s is a scrumptious chili pepper tossed into the neighborhood’s extraordinarily tasteful restaurant cuisine.

Having traveled throughout Mexico together, the couple shares a love for the country, stemming from Kate’s having lived in Zihuatanejo for a year and Pete’s work as a chef for 20 years in San Francisco, where his kitchens were “made up entirely of Mexicanos, Guatamantecos & Nicaraguenzas” who shared with him their language, music, customs, and how to prepare the “simple, full flavored food.” He recalls with warmth these “great guys, hard workers, and passionate people” nicknaming him ‘Pedro.’

Conjuring up Mexico’s widely celebrated festival, the Day of the Dead (Nov. 1-2), Pedro’s bright walls and pathways are filled with intriguing tchotchkes: a spirited ancient accordion; carved bull’s head with immense horns; a big, white, distressed cross; and tall, elegant blue bottles in the windows, majestically  catching the light.

On warm autumn days, you can also bask in the gorgeous fall light while dining on the expansive deck adorned with tiki lights and the ubiquitous flower of Mexico, the seductive orange-red hibiscus.

Beyond the mojitos (they’re so good, must we go beyond them?), there’s an impressive array of Margaritas; a strong beer list, including canned tecate, a Mexican light; and red or white Sangria.

And the food! You can’t beat the Gringo tacos (with rice and refried beans, $12). Definitely not your tex-mex fast food mish-mash, these creations completely deconstruct the ground beef as a ho-hum ingredient, giving it spectacular highlights with the freshest, crispy greens, spicy chipotle sauce, luscious guacamole, fresh home-made cheese and cheddar, and a zesty salsa fresca. We are on a roll.

Next, we try the chic Chicken Enchiladas Verde ($13), adorned in a pleasingly piquant green sauce containing tomatillos, cilantro, avocado, and topped with shredded queso fresco. Served with rice, refried beans, and salsa, it’s beyond just a memorable experience.

The Mahi Mahi taco has a sophisticated twist, with lime-scented cabbage, salsa, and sliced avocados. A sure winner is the Chicken Tinga taco, with lots of guacamole, fresh cheese, lettuce, and salsa.

Especiales de la Semana feature alluring concoctions from various regions whose people and recipes have so strongly influenced “Pedro.” These include: Argentinian bistec con chimichurri (skirt steak, garlic, cilantro parsley, rice, and beans, $15); Peruvian Empanadas de carne (pastry turnovers stuffed with braised beef, $12); Brazilian Feijoada (pork and chorizo black bean stew with rice and collard greens, $15); and Nicaraguan Tomales de Pollo (steamed masa filled with seasoned chicken and salsa, $12).

Be sure to keep an appetite for dessert, as the toasted coconut flan is out of this world (there’s diversity for you!). Pedro’s is rocketing to the top.