Duck in to beat the cold in the Kennebunks.

December 2019

By Colin W. Sargent

Restaurateur Rebecca Charles is a legend in New York, known for Pearl Oyster Bar in Greenwich Village. But it’s here in Maine where she’s sunk everything into her labor of love, Pearl, near Gooch’s Beach, where her family has summered for more than a century. Looking for sanctuary from the winter chill, we step in on an icy night.

We’re glad the enormous stone fireplace with the flames that reach to the stars is still here. A server attends to it nearly constantly, and it’s welcome theater—logs erupt with enormous pops as they grow bright, crackle, and send out a glow. Downstairs, “Spat Oyster Cellar” calls with the shell game, but we don’t answer. The table near the fire is what we crave.

We settle in with a Lillet Blanc Fizz ($9), glad to see that the long, rustic banquet table that dates to other iterations of 27 Western Avenue is here, but the bistro-style chairs don’t quite convey the luxury this romantic spot deserves. We frankly miss the old booths. The bar seduces with light filtering through shelves and glassware.

Tonight, we’re celebrating the holidays in twos. We start with two Market Oysters ($3 each), two Cocktail Shrimp ($3 each), two Fried Oysters with Pearl-made tartar sauce ($3.25 each), and two Salt-Crusted Shrimp ($3.25 each). The server tells us these luscious oysters are “Pemaquid Selects from the Damariscotta River.”

The Golden, Red, and Candy Cane Beets ($12) are festive to behold, served with “mixed lettuces, Roquefort Cheese, and a cider vinaigrette.”

We order two glasses of wine: one the luscious Goulayant Malbec ($10), the other Tortoise Creek Pinot Noir ($9). Our server lets us in on a great tip: If you order at least two glasses of wine, they’ll open any bottle for you but charge you by the glass (even if the menu doesn’t offer it by the glass). We’ll certainly keep that in mind.

We dive into the Pan Roasted Halibut ($29) with parsnips, Brussels sprouts, carrots, bacon lardons, and a sprig of oregano. Heart-warming. The 11-ounce Grilled Ribeye ($34) is even better. Served with watercress, there’s a bonfire of shoestring potatoes artistically piled up. What a sinful treat to share with a lover or friends.

The finale is Praline Parfait ($9) with mugs of bracing black coffee. We’re ready to face the night air. Almost. Total dinner for two before tip: $154.48.

Pearl Kennebunk & Spat Oyster Cellar. Wednesday–Sunday, 5p.m. to close. Open New Year’s Eve 6–9p.m. Closed January 6–February 12, and February 24–March 11, 2020. 204-0860.