Reviewed By Diane Hudson Dec. 2005
This year-round four-star restaurant goes to even greater lengths during Kenne-bunkport’s annual Christ–mas Prelude festivities. Of-fering an exquisite holiday menu surrounded by sparkling, breath-taking decor, the Prelude show at On the Marsh is not to be missed.
“Fine dining should be like theater,” says owner Denise Rubin, who delights diners with surprises un-folding the moment the curtain rises.
The Prologue’s Winter Bisque ($8) and Port Poached Pear and Saga Blue Cheese ($11) begin the culinary intrigue. The bisque, a heavenly mixture of apple, butternut squash, and lots of lobster, comes beautifully served in a fine German china tureen. The pears, ripe and symbolic, are superbly accompanied by the perfectly aged soft cheese. Add the adroit touch of St. Francis (Sonoma County) Cabernet Sauvignon ($8 glass) and you have a rapt audience
The Performance entrées heighten the senses with more whimsy, celebration, and sudden beauty. “There’s enough in life to be taken seriously,” Rubin says. “Leave it all at the front door here and be transported into another world.”
The Filet Mignon ($31/market) and Sea Scallops and Lobster Risotto ($29) as performed by chef Kurt Myhaver deserve a standing ovation. The classic center-cut seared filet mignon–perfectly cooked, served with Bernaise sauce, terrific roasted Yukon gold potatoes, and sweet young asparagus–is butter-knife tender. The succulent pan-seared scallops pair well with the delicate, tasty lobster risotto and lobster jus. On the Marsh’s signature dish, the Lobster Steak (market), also sparkles. Im-agine two one-and-a-half-pound lobster tails taken out of the shell and bound together atop wild rice with a beurre blanc sauce and fresh medley of vegetables surmounted by a finial of two bright red lobster claws, also removed from the shell.
Then there’s the grilled organic black pearl salmon from Scotland ($26.50), or the oven-fired organic and antibiotic-free half chicken served with dried cranberry wild rice, Madeira roasted chicken reduction, and seasonal vegetables ($25). Then again, one might fancy the roasted vegetable en croute, with red wine reduction, warm spinach salad, and mustard vinaigrette ($24).
But wait! There’s the Epilogue, a sprightly trip into unimaginably good dessert fare, featuring Dutch Apple Bolen ($8), a delicious apple baked inside a tender pastry crust and served with caramel and vanilla bean ice cream. Call now; this show sells out quickly, though theme decorations are still on exhibit through February.
On the Marsh, 46 Western Ave., Rte. 9, Lower Vil-lage, Kennebunk. Prelude dinner December 3. 967-2299 or www.onthemarsh.com
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