April 2012

By Diane Hudson

Capt. Fabulous

There’s something shape-shifting about dining at a restaurant that’s part of an inn. You slip in from the street and find yourself lavished with warm attention as though you’re an honored guest–even though you’re not staying the night.

Not only that, there’s a party going on here! Nowhere is this sensation more striking than at Captain Daniel Stone Inn’s No. 10 Water, where a new ownership team has just lured chef Brian Tebben from his eight-year stint as popular executive chef at the Royal River Grill in Yarmouth.

From Tebben’s mouth-watering array of tapas ($7), we select shrimp and mango spring rolls–large, perfectly crisped, and filled with carrot, mango, shrimp, and rice noodles. After sliding them across pomegranate sweet and sour sauce, we wonder, “Best spring rolls ever?” Then we forget them entirely as we rush to the Maine Lobster Stuffed Wontons with sherry cream sauce and the grilled beef tenderloin crostini… Wow!

For salad, we’re dazzled by the duck confit ($10). Shredded Pineland Farms cheddar, dried cranberries, crisp apples, toasted walnuts, and fresh greens all highlight the intense flavors. Then the flash of genius: a subtle maple cider vinaigrette.

Our first entrée, the Apple Bourbon Braised Pork Shank ($23), towers at least five inches above the bowl. A rich braising stock magnifies the accompanying carrots, fennel, and Maine potatoes.

Then there’s my grilled tuna steak ($28). Again, the portion astounds–it’s about the size and thickness of a generous filet mignon. But the taste is even bigger. Cooked to perfection at medium rare, the flavor jumps when you dip it in mild wasabi aioli. Grilled eggplant and Mediterranean vegetable orzo pasta are perfect counterpoints.

Background music for this romantic interlude includes a lively, entertaining performance by guitarist-singer-songwriter Dan Merrill, which goes better than well against a bottle of good Shiraz, Australian Shoofly ($27), and a delicious dessert.

Just imagine rich, creamy, chocolate molten cake ($7) with fresh whipped cream and the sweetest, largest raspberries ever.

No. 10 Water
10 Water St., Brunswick
Dinner: Sun-Thurs, 5-9 p.m.
Fri-Sat, 5-9:30 p.m.
Sunday Brunch, 11-2 p.m. 373-9299