reviewed by Diane Hudson – Sept. 2002
Mall Chinese is what you might expect in a suburban shopping plaza. But Lotus, situated in Falmouth Shopping Center on Route 1 in Falmouth, is the exception that proves the rule.
When owner James Ran relocated here from Brunswick nine months ago – for a wider public and better parking, he vowed to make Lotus the “number one Chinese restaurant in Maine” He may well have succeeded.
With his older brother, Tao, as chief chef, Han, 48, a native of Taiwan, brought in Jack Zang, 36, born in Shanghai, as manager and gave him a free hand in designing the restaurant and hiring the staff. Zang’s experience includes being a manager at the 1000-seat Chinese culinary citadel known as the Weylus in Saugus, just outside of Boston. He’s also held managerial positions in Italian and French restaurants, contributing, probably, to a distinct and welcome tableside attentiveness as well as an enthusiastic appreciation of wine.
Although Lotus boasts a sushi bar staffed by a Japanese-trained Chinese chef, it is regarded by Zang and Han “chiefly as entertainment. More than 90 percent of our business is Chinese food”
Wiith two friends to help sample the wide-ranging menu, we started with vegetarian steamed dumplings ($4.95 for 6), scallion pancakes ($2.95 for 6), and spring rolls ($1). All were superb but the dumplings were unique. No bland pastry and filling here. Even the pastry is handmade fresh daily, and the filling is a substantial and surprising mix of spinach, spices and tofu. I don’t know of another restaurant in the state to make its dumplings from scratch.
A large bowl of wonderful chicken and rice soup followed ($5.95), ladled and served to us at the table. Following the soup we shared Shrimp Royal ($13.95) -tender jumbo shrimp, shredded pork and mushrooms, and the meatiest little bamboo shoots, all made slightly zesty with just enough hot pepper. The seasonings a hint at the Mandarin-Szechuan cuisine prevalent in the Lotus menu.
For entrees we took Zang’s advice and ordered two of the day’s seafood specials: Soft-Shell Crab ($16.95) and Baked Whole Fish ($25.95). Fresh is the word here, as well as delicate seasoning, beauty in presentation, and just downright good eating. We found the crab, slightly floured and sauteed to a perfect crispness, a rare treat. The whole fish, a gorgeous Chilean Sea Bass, splendid to all the senses, was carved and served to us by Zang and our waitress with a great and colorful flourish befitting the lovely dish.
Savoring all these flavors more than pleased our palates, but Zang, noticing a lack of green vegetable accompaniment, served a beautiful plate of nicely seasoned stir-fried asparagus, “on the house.” When we ate at the Lotus, we took a friend whose exceptional knowledge of Chinese cuisine dates back to his naval visits to China more than 50 years ago. We had to drag him out of Lotus he loved it so much.
Lotus, 251 US Route 1, Falmouth, ME. (207) 781-3457
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