Island Whirl
Peaks Islanders consider the pub at the Inn on Peaks a private secret. But weekend after weekend, funloving crowds from the mainland have something else in mind.
If the grub weren’t so delicious at the Inn on Peaks Island, there’d be reason enough (beyond the rave reports of our island friends, who consider the pub here a regional treasure) to visit for the journey alone: The Casco Bay ferries dish up a refreshing 20-minute visual appetizer as you watch the Portland city skyline turn purple and pink behind lighthouses, Fort Gorges, Little Diamond and House Islands, and the twinkles of a visiting cruise liner or two.
Then there’s the air of camaraderie among the commuters, too, spiced with a dash of misanthropy, with a goodly number of Peaks Islanders greeting newcomers warmly and helpfully, proudly describing the many attractions of their island and island life.
The Inn on Peaks, with its celebrated pub, is right at the top of the hill directly ahead as you disembark, and it’s a splendid sight. The patio treats diners to direct views of sparkling city lights against the shadowy outline of House Island, resulting in terrific vistas as the sun’s light fades into gorgeous bay colors. Add a few billowing sails as boats glide by-well, you get the picture.
The menu begins with standard pub fare: oven-roasted nachos, chicken wings and tenders, chile, chowder, various wraps, burgers, fried filet of haddock, and BLTs. But then you sense the more ambitious touches, too, including fried calamari ($8.95), baked artichoke dip ($8.95), and a chilled hummus plate ($8.95).
Another strength: the staggering assortment of draft beer and ale here, including cask-conditioned Old Thumper Extra Special Ale, Chamberlain Pale Ale, Shipyard Export Ale, and Bluefin Stout (all drafts, $4).
My partner, taking the suggestion from friends we have on the island, tried the stout, which he said he enjoyed more than any beer he’d had in months. It also was a tasty accompaniment to his grilled corned-beef Reuben, zesty with Export-Ale-braised corned beef, Swiss cheese, thousand-island dressing, and sauerkraut on marbled rye ($8.95). He fancied this so much that the very next day he cooked up a slab of corned beef, hoping to duplicate the dish.
We shared a good French Onion Gratinee, made with a burgundy beef broth, lots of melted Swiss cheese over good (and not too many) croustades ($4.95) and a Caesar salad- mounds of crisp romaine, croutons, grated parmesan and a savory dressing ($7.95).
I chose the grilled teri tuna ($10.95), a generous cut of loin cooked just right (pinkish in the middle) and served with a tangy wasabi mayo sauce, fresh radish sprouts, and some hot, crisp fries-another recommendation, and a good one (on my radar for next time, the fried sweet potatoes).
Our sweet finish was a gorgeous hunk of chocolate stout cheese cake, served with a dollop of whipped cream ($5). Nice. As was the gentle ride back to the city lights of the mainland. A neat little getaway-with no jet lag. n
The Pub at the Inn on Peaks
33 Island Avenue, Peaks Island. Open 7 days 11:30 to closing. 766-5100 innonpeaks.com
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