Melody on the Rocks
In Rockland, great art like this deserves to draw crowds
Culinary Institute of America grad Melody Wolfertz is sizzling as chef/owner of In Good Company.
A stop here is the perfect prelude to an afternoon at The Farnsworth Museum, with its wonderful Wyeths and hot new Robert Indiana show.
The international wine listbrings you adventurous choices from South Africa to Maine. Intriguing beers abound as well, from the local to Sri Lanka.
It would be easy to make a feast from the tapas alone in the “Nibbles” section of the menu, including marinated olives ($4), tapenade or pesto with crostini ($4), white- bean hummus with rosemary foccaccia ($9), whole baked garlic topped with molten goat, brie, or blue ($7), and sweet and hot pepperdews stuffed with Seal Cove goat ($6).
Delighted with the exceptional use of artisanal cheeses and meats of all kinds here, we decided on a selection from the cheeseboard and charcuterie ($16). A knockout, the plate jumped with tasty dry salami, Jasper Hill cheeses including scrumptious Bayley Hazen blue and pungent Constant Bliss, a perfect French bread from nearby Atlantic Bakery, and spicy French tarragon and cranberry mustards. All flavors stood up well to the jammy punch of McLaren Vale Razor’s Edge Shiraz (2006, $26).
Salads rock here. Ours, a colorful assortment of roasted eggplant, zucchini, red peppers, and huge rounds of marvelous Mozzarella hit the spot, splashed with Pedro Jimenez vinegar and extra virgin olive oil–an amazing value at $8!
My halibut ($18) sported tasty browned pistachios and an intoxicating passion fruit beurre blanc, an oven roasted sweet potato, and crunchy broccoli. My partner’s pizzetta ($14) was a meal in itself, its super-thin crispy crust the perfect stage for Terra Optima (a farm in nearby Appleton) Canadian bacon, spinach, ruby potatoes, and tasty Taleggio.
Don’t miss the chocolate fondue with fruit and assorted chocolates from Maine chocolatiers. We relished every morsel of our chocolate fudge cake, made with 60-40 Belgian chocolate and Madeira, dangerously accompanied by a rhubarb blueberry compote.
-Diane Hudson
In Good Company, 415 Main Street, Rockland. Open Tuesday through Sunday 4:30 to close, reservations accepted for eight or more. 593-9110
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