reviewed by Diane Hudson September 2006
You can dine like a rajah at Hi Bombay! at 1 Pleasant Street. Eager to get into the spirit of things, we sailed into Nizam’s Choice ($5.95), a mixed platter offering Vegetable Pakora (fried in chick pea batter); Gobi Pakora (cauliflower); Rikki Tikki Tavi (spiced vegetable pocket); Samosa, shredded potatoes and green pea tunovers; and Pappadam, a very light dipping bread made of lentils.
Sauces of spicy chopped onion and tomato, tamarind, and mint and green pepper flavored with sugar and vinegar helped make Nizam’s Choice a wise one–especially in concert with the Raita ($2), spiced yogurt with tomatoes and cucumber, a refreshing accompaniment to the hotter dishes.
Tandoor breads really shine here. The Naan ($2.50), a plain but tasty pocket, is often used instead of rice with dinner in India. Garlic onion kulcha, a mild unleavened bread filled with garlic, onions, and herbs ($3.95), and Kabuli Naan, bread stuffed with shredded coconut, raisins, cashews, and almonds ($3.95), added to the festive atmosphere. One of our party was particularly enamored of Poori ($3.95), a grilled bread that arrives at the table looking like big golden pillows. Poori makes a delightful accompaniment to any entrée. One of our companions ordered the poori twice, saying robustly, “It’s one of the best things in this world.”
Our entrées perfectly complemented one another in color, flavor, and texture. The Botti Kebab ($11.95), tender, spicy lamb chunks beautifully barbequed over charcoal, was nicely set off by Malai Kofta ($10.95), freshly minced vegetables formed as meatballs and simmered in an exquisite cream sauce with ginger, cardamom, saffron, cashews, and raisins. The complex, smoky flavors of the Lamb Saag ($11.95), charcoal broiled lamb served on a bed of spiced spinach and light cream, were a hit with all and worked well with the subtle flavors of Chicken Shami Korma ($10.95), tender roasted chicken in an aromatic cream sauce with cashews, raisins, and almonds.
Hi Bombay! is a feast and an evening’s entertainment built into one. A first-rate outing all around.
Hi Bombay! One Pleasant Street, Portland. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., with parking. 772-8767 or www.hibombay.com
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