Maine Street Surprise
Popular Henry and Marty’s is a three-dimensional happening.
reviewed by Diane Hudson – April 2008
A line of diners waits outside of Henry and Marty, a favorite Brunswick eatery since 1998 (now owned by Aaron Park–former chef/owner of the West Side Café in Portland–and Paul Hollingsworth). There are reasons for this:
First, lucky to grab a seat at the bar, we are delighted by the Blue Dog Bar Kibbles ($4 each) and begin devouring the tapas-like warmed country olives, pizette, albondigas (Bisson Farm beef and pork meat balls in a fennel roasted tomato sauce), spiced nuts, Korean scallion pancake, shrimp crostini, blue perro huevo (organic chorizo with scrambled egg and cheese with bread).
Then, sure, why not try the Blue Doggie cocktail (Absolut citron, Cointreau, cranberry, and lime, $9)? Red wines are stored in temperature-controlled facilities, and we get an insight into this restaurant’s success when we overhear the knowledgeable and personable bartender tell a diner to call from his car next time so she can open a bottle prior to his arrival. Starting to relax, we discover an incredible value and flavor in the Perrin Reserve Côtes du Rhône, 2005 ($21).
Then we tear into the chicken liver paté ($9) and a cup of house-made minestrone ($4). Both substantial and satisfying, the paté has enormous appeal with its rustic simplicity. Two large rectangular slices, topped by bread-stick ribbons, are nicely complemented with good grainy mustard, cornichons, and a feisty flavorful pickled garlic scape.
Next, my partner selects Thin-Crust Pizza ($14). Here, pizza is a three-dimensional art form, with eye-opening ingredients such as fresh arugula, caramelized Vidalia onions, gorgonzola and Olde Shiretown cheeses, and Kalamata olives. Other tantalizing entrées include Filet Mignon with Oyster Creek mushrooms ($29), Paella Valenciana ($26), Roasted Salmon in an organic cranberry rosemary sauce ($24), Cuban-Style Shrimp ($19), and French Lentil Loaf ($16).
The Rack of Lamb ($27) I order, marinated in rosemary and garlic with an aromatic balsamic-vinegar-and-red-wine demi-glaze, is cooked perfectly. Seared quickly over a hot fire, the result is a tasty caramelized crust and juicy, tender meat. The accompanying roasted chestnut flavor of the Princess LaRatte fingerling potatoes and simple sautéed rainbow chard tossed in homemade lemon oil couldn’t be better.
Desserts sparkle here: Try the popular Chocolate Nemesis or an array of cobblers, crisps, and tartlets.
Just a stunning, romantic outing. Aaron and Paul, we love your Henry and Marty!
Henry and Marty, 61 Maine Street, Brunswick.
Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, 5-9 p.m.
721-9141 or www.henryandmarty.com
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