November 2009
Grace Notes – Open the doors, and see all the people.
If Chestnut Street Church had attracted crowds like this, it would still be a church. Transformed by a million-dollar restoration, Grace the restaurant accommodates nearly 200 diners on its ground floor and balconies and still finds room for a gigantic central circular bar.
Downright heavenly wine selections prevail here, including St. Francis Old Vine Zinfandel, a bargain at $30 per bottle. Entertaining concoctions such as “Holier Than Thou,” St. Germaine with grapefruit juice and sparkling wine, and “Heated Affair,” house-infused strawberry jalapeño-pineapple tequila Margarita, add to the fun, along with a litany of beers from Bud Lite to Allagash Black.
Terrifically engineered entrees and appealing appetizers jump from the menu: Seared Baby Octopus ($10), Salt Cured Foie Gras ($16), Pork Cretons ($10), Steak Tartare ($11), and Duck Confit ($13). We chose the confit. More than enough to share, the tender duck flavors mixed well with crispy watercress, thin-sliced turnips, a perfectly poached duck egg, and tiny wafers of dried figs.
Then we tore into Lamb Two Ways ($29), a delicious lamb T-bone and braised shoulder ragout with fava beans, both cooked to perfection.
On to the gnocchi. My partner was thrilled with his pan-seared goat cheese variety, sporting a subtle ginger tomato broth with opal basil, hen- of-the-wood mushrooms, and fennel pollen.
Beyond the good, crusty bread everyone was enjoying, other diners around us were delighted by their colorful servings of butter-poached Maine lobster ($36), pork short ribs ($26), free range half chicken ($24), all natural New York sirloin ($36), and a host of other offerings.
The gourmet cheese platter on the dessert menu features Fiddlehead Tomme, Bayley Hazen Blue, and Bonne Bouche. Then there’s cantaloupe sorbet, black pepper parfait, and a blueberry strata consisting of house-made blueberry gelato, lemon thyme foam, blueberry compote, mascarpone mousse, and candied almonds.
Oh, did we mention? Our server was an angel.
Grace, 15 Chestnut Street, Portland. Tuesday-Saturday, Bar 4 p.m.-12:30 a.m., Dining 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m., 828-4422, restaurantgrace.com.
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