Lovely Fish Bones
Lewiston’s snappy fish house is anything but run-of-the-mill.
by Diane Hudson
Built in 1850, Bates Mill is an architectural wonder of Maine, once drawing throngs of workers. Today, after a tasteful restoration of the complex, you still see lines of people here, but it’s largely crowds of diners heading for Mill No. 6 and the bright lights of Fish Bones American Grill.
Restaurant owner Paul Landry says he and his wife, Kate, opened this companion to their steak house across the river in Auburn “because we thought Lewiston needed a really good fish restaurant, concentrating on a more upscale culinary presentation.”
Landry also embraced the chance to take part in the Lewiston-Auburn renaissance.
Warmed and welcomed immediately upon entering, we passed through a lively bar/lounge and plunged into a great deal-one pound of succulent clams steamed with garlic, herbs, and Geary’s ale, for just $9.
Amazing. Served with ample clarified butter, bread, and a huge bowl of broth, there was enough for four of us to dip contentedly without coming close to depleting the supply.
Sharing more apps like the Maine lobster crepes ($10) and tomato herb tart ($6) proved taste tantalizing and not too filling. The crepes, filled with asparagus, caramelized onion, and Fontina cheese, are covered in tender lobster meat and truffle oil-a hit with all, as was the tart-a fine, flaky pastry baked with rich ricotta, basil, and vine-ripe tomatoes.
Next up, a classic Caesar salad, included with our entrees) delighted all with lots of shaved Parmesan and the perfect amount of anchovies.
In spite of fish ruling here (clam chowder is a must on the next visit, as well as linguine with clams, red or white sauce-$18) I surrendered to the delicious “Land and Sea,” a filet-style Angus sirloin served with grilled sea scallops and shrimp ($21). Served rare per my request, the meat was tender and tasty enough for the cut, and the garlic mashed potatoes and ample veggies, including carrots and broccoli, provided perfect background music. The large shrimp and scallops (two of each) topped it off nicely.
The fish and chips do not resemble any we’ve ever seen, the haddock served, tower-like, over garlic mash, baby spinach, and mushrooms, and topped with a few crispy potatoes ($18). My partner devoured the entire dish with gusto.
The swordfish one of us ordered ($25), a special of the day, was as good as it gets, fresh and flavorful, and a large portion as well.
Then, too, the plate of grilled sea scallops ($20) accompanied by ample asparagus, a warm salsa of mango and cilantro, and a delightful green onion citrus couscous won kudos from all.
Thoroughly impressed, we couldn’t resist continuing the fun with a couple of fine desserts: blueberry cobbler with homemade ice cream and chocolate ganache cake ($7 each).
Bottom line: You can feast heartily at Fish Bones on a bare bones budget…Net result? A great evening.
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