Go Figa

Dining here whisks you breathlessly around the world.

By Diane Hudson

Like the iconic good luck talisman the figa, with origins traced from Brazil to Africa, Greece, and even Rome, Figa chef/owner Lee Farrington’s culinary sortilège gains its strength from multiple sources.

For example, there’s the Indian-inspired Sev Crusted Scallop with jícama, apple, pear slaw, and curried vinaigrette ($10); Indonesian-styled Wild Boar Rendang ($7/$24); and Asian Spicy Tofu with an orange soy glaze and house-made kimchee ($8).

Returning home between flights is Sautéed Wild Foraged Mushrooms ($12); Seafood Risotto featuring Maine Shrimp and Scallops ($19/$28); and every locally sourced farm-fresh green, veggie, meat, and cheese imaginable.

The charcuterie ($18) is irresistible, house-made. The foot-and-a-half-long wondrous wooden platter displays a dreamy assortment of meats (duck pastrami, pork-and-pistachio terrine, beef bresaola, apricot-cased pork lomo, pork terrine), pickled fennel and red onion, cornichons, and a delectable house-made mustard. We go after each tempting, savory substance with gusto.

The robust flavors are well matched with beverages selected from a thoughtful list, mine being the bourbon-based Basil Julep ($9), my partner’s Oxbow on draught ($7).

The chilly evening is also warmed by a terrific grilled hanger steak ($18/$26), ordered rare and served precisely right. Tender and flavorful, the steak is accompanied by some of the best braised greens we’ve ever had. Chef Randy Cruse tells us they consist of mustard greens, arugula, and tatsoi, sourced from Stonecipher, Laughing Stock, and other local farms, as is the tangy Molho Rita Sauce (a Brazilian influence from Farrington’s heritage) and home-style potato gratin.

Next up is the Pan Seared Duck Breast ($26). Tender slices are gorgeously arrayed with a comforting mixture of corn, leeks, the sweetest little, local mushrooms, duck prosciutto hash, and, the taste trump of the evening, cherry gastrique.

For dessert there’s Chocolate Pots De Crème with Chantilly Cream Sauce, an elegant choice as well as a dashing ginger crème brûlée ($8).

Tradition holds that, in order to bring good luck, a figa must be a gift. Farrington has given Figa to us, and we are indeed blessed by the offering.

249 Congress St., Portland
Tues-Thurs, 5:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.
Fri-Sat, 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.
518-9400 , figarestaurant.com