May 2011
You don’t have to cross the Atlantic to experience European charm. Transport yourself to the continent at these hotels and inns.
By Benjamin Goodridge
In this neck of the woods, a number of inns are designed to transport you to the other side of the Pond. So grab your L.L. Bean rucksack or Louis Vuitton overnight bag and prepare for adventure–sans passport.
Bienvenue dans le Maine!
“Staying here,” says Beth Clark, innkeeper of Le Domaine, “is like walking into France.” Kick back Provençal-style while enjoying a chilled glass of 2006 La Marouette Viognier from the award-winning wine cellar and absorb “the atmosphere, smell of good food, and decor” that give this Hancock inn its piquant flavor. The ornate rooms are “all named for towns in Provence, and each one is done in fabrics to match its respective town.”
If 1920s Paris is more your style, stay in the sensual “Moulin Rouge” grand king suite (with velvet sofa and fireplace) at the Ivy Manor Inn in Bar Harbor. “We consistently attract European visitors,” says innkeeper Judith Stanley, and “the sumptuous French fare at our Fleur de Lis Tavern is one reason why. The tavern walls are French-European mahogany, and the décor is done in color tones of a French chateau. Its unique ambiance is enchanting and romantic…. We are the only inn that does original soufflé, and all of our chocolate is imported from France.”
More the Beefeater Gin type? Stand fast in Bar Harbor and keep your eyes peeled for the tower and turret of the Black Friar Inn. After one quick knock, jolly “Friar” Tom will greet you at the door of this “traditional, small English inn.” Relax at the pub with a thick, dark Black Fly Stout while noshing on traditional English fare like bangers ‘n’ mash and fish ‘n’ chips. “Our inn has British flavor inside and out,” says the friar. “We try to stay true to the friars’ traditions of the past, mainly by inspiring joyful conversation and happiness.”
Other options from Albion include Ogunquit’s Beauport Inn. Although built recently, its handcrafted stonework and stained-glass doors are reminiscent of a 19th-century, English country manor. Wake up to an authentic English country breakfast including fresh fruit over waffles with potatoes, tea, and homemade bread. Later, stroll the pastel gardens or hit the hammam, a Turkish steam room.
Willkommen auf Maine!
If it’s more The Sound of Music than Robin Hood you’re after, head to the The Lucerne Inn. Built in 1812 in Dedham on the road between Bangor and Bar Harbor, this alpine retreat earned its name from a group of guests from Lucerne, Switzerland, struck by its resemblance to their own hamlet. The resort and restaurant overlook Phillips Lake, a lovely sight to take in while savoring the hearty German dishes of chef Patrick Friel. “[Patrick’s] very old school,” says innkeeper Steve Jones. “He cooks up the best jägerschnitzel you’ll find in Maine, and the mushroom strudel ain’t too bad, either!” It must be pretty good, for the inn has attracted high-flying guests from Amelia Earhart to an entire U.S. national tennis team. “Oprah almost stayed here once,” quips Jones, “but–no joke–the rooms wouldn’t fit all of her luggage.” She’ll probably leave that little story out of her book club.
For air so crisp you can hear it crack, slip across the state line into Glen, New Hampshire, and put your feet up at Bernerhof Inn. “I had an innate love of the place when I first visited 50 years ago,” says Dick Badger, who bought and renovated the inn in the summer of 2010. “I was extra careful to keep its Swiss heritage in place. People used to travel to this inn on horse and buggy, on their way to Mount Washington. The Bernerhof was an ideal place to stay for the weary traveler then, and it holds that same warmth today.”
The foundation hasn’t changed since the inn was built in 1880 by Swiss immigrants, and the menu is true to traditional heritage. “Veal is what the restaurant was always known for, and you can find multiple veal dishes on our menu today. Also try the cheese fondue, a personal favorite of mine.”
More Swiss charm awaits at The Balsams in Dixville, New Hampshire. While dining table d’hote with “multiple courses offered at a fixed price”–you can gaze out at the rugged landscape of Northern New Hampshire and imagine yourself immersed in the Swiss Alps. “We’re surrounded by 800-foot sheer cliffs, we’re in a remote setting, and there’s a sense of escapism here,” says David Donohue. Who knew the Alps were so close to Portland?
Benvenuti in Maine!
Sunday River’s most luxurious hotel, the Grand Summit, is also a paeon to the alpine. “We’ve based the hotel on a mountain-like feel,” says Darcy Morse, director of marketing. “Rooms similar to ours could be found in the Alps.” While they maintain the essence of a log cabin, “all the rooms are equipped with state-of-the-art Boyne mattresses, and our steak dinners are to die for.”
We’ve covered a lot of ground, fellow travelers, but there is one, last inn that deserves our attention: The Pentagöet in the picturesque harbor town of Castine. “We’re not country specific,” says innkeeper Jack Burke. “Rather, we reflect the Victorian tradition, and the embodiment of the people who first settled here: the Dutch, French, and English.” Burke, a connoisseur of world history, has created an inn that oozes diplomatic intrigue out of every pore. After a long day kayaking or biking, hit Passports pub and refresh with an “Ambassador”–the Pentagöet’s take on a gin and tonic–while sitting beneath the watchful eyes of world leaders like Gandhi, Lenin, and Queen Victoria. “Castine was once Maine’s most populous town and linchpin in the East India trade route,” says Burke. “Your stay here will evoke a sense of world diplomacy.”
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