reviewed by Diane Hudson Dec Feb/Mar 05
El Camino, in Spanish: “the way, the road.” El Camino, in Maine: a hot new cantina in Brunswick just bursting with taste and absolutely full of fun.
The menu, inspired by chef-owner Eloise Humphrey, is Mexican by way of California where she lived before returning to her native Northeast. Humphrey is committed to using locally produced goods: fresh Maine seafood, organic chorizo sausage, and other meat and veggies from local farms.
Beverage choices include Geary’s Root Beer on tap ($3), seven different Mexican beers, a terrific concoction of lime and organic coconut milk ($3), tasty and festive Sangria ($6), and, of course, a host of Margaritas, one served with the ultimate twist – a bit of jalapeÒo pepper soaked in with the salt on the rim ($7.50).
Our tasting adventure began with a big basket of light, crisp, homemade tortilla chips with a rich and zesty guacamole loaded with meaty avocado ($5.50) and fresh charred tomato salsa ($2.50), which my partner dubbed the best he’s ever had.
Each entrÈe has its own subtlety, including the Roasted Butternut Squash Taco with roasted garlic, onions, red and poblono peppers, sauteed swiss chard, aromatic white rice, and organic black beans ($8.50)≠ mouthwateringly splendid.
My Pozole ($9), a stew of pork and hominy with a wonderful side plate of fresh basil, grilled scallions, Mexican oregano, diced jalapeÒo peppers, and cucumber salsa, proved heartwarmingly good. A generous serving of perfectly griddled organic homemade chorizo and potato quesadilla ($8.50) was a hit, as was the soft taco entrÈe: two corn tortillas filled with grilled chicken and served with salsa and a side of either black or refried beans and rice ($8.50).
Other taco fillings include grilled chile-rubbed skirt steak, chorizo and potato, pescado (fresh haddock), fresh Maine shrimp, or fresh Maine lobster.
The dessert of the day, organic pumpkin flan with maple caramelized sauce and an elegant almond tuile ($6), was accompanied by a delightfully different hot Mexican chocolate drink ($3).
El Camino: the way to go to treat all your senses to something really good.
El Camino, 15 Cushing Street, Brunswick. Open Tuesday to Saturday, lunch and dinner. 725-8228.
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