reviewed by Diane Hudson Oct. 2007
“Wood-fired pizza in the West End! Why didn’t I think of that?”
Bonobo–not your typical animal, not your typical pizza place. Named for the much-researched and beloved peace-loving member of the ape family, this new stop on the corner of Pine and Brackett streets has fast become a neighborhood magnet for dining in or taking out.
Entering Bonobo’s whimsical new space, formerly Supreme Pizza, is in itself a treat. Gone are the drop ceilings, exposing a gorgeous tin ceiling beaming in orange-hued burnt sienna. Simultaneously calming and bold colors charm along with meticulously rendered wall paintings suggesting jungle grass by artists Colin Sullivan-Stevens and Friederike Hamann. Add to that the warm wood tones of the fixtures and a classic brick oven with exposed crackling fires and you have a recipe for fun dining in the West End.
Pizza dining, that is. And salads, good salads. Start (or end) with the Caesar salad, sporting a light creamy dressing, cheese croutons, and refreshing white anchovies. Or try the simple butter lettuce, endive, and slightly pickled cucumber salad ($4) adding, if you wish, a wedge of a variety of good cheeses for $2.
Of the wonderful 13-inch pizzas we tried, our favorite is the “Bonobo.” Delicately flavored by the wood fire, this dish gets right into your senses. The crust is a perfect texture–crisp yet engagingly soft, with smoked wild mushrooms, prosciutto, fresh baby spinach, and a superb sauce of leeks, cream, and fontina–bonobo bellissimo!
We also loved (and you can select two topping styles on one pie) the Greek ($14), Artichoke ($16), and Sausage ($14). The Greek, with kalamata olives, spinach, tomatoes, feta, and light mozzarella is a crowd pleaser. The Artichoke, jumping with sundried tomatoes, a chevre and cream sauce, and basil is a knockout, as is the homemade Sausage pizza, with roasted sweet onions, mozzarella, and oregano.
Libations range from Pellegrino to Sunday River Sunsplash, Wolaver organic IPA, Long Trail Ale, and a splendid variety of wines. Flavorful Herencia Antica Spanish Tempranillo ($18) and Sant’Appiano Italian chianti ($21) perfectly complemented our pizzas and salads.
Our Maple’s Organics ice cream cones– coconut and blueberry cream–were festive, but don’t miss their Tiramisu (sponge cake and whipped espresso mascarpone soaked in rum, Kahlua, and espresso) or the raspberries with honey lemon mascarpone. Bonobotit!
Bonobo, Pine & Brackett streets, Portland. Open Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m. -11 p.m. 347-8267.
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