reviewed by Diane Hudson April 2006
Artemisia, like its namesake, 17-century painter Artemisia Gentileschi, the first women member of Florence’s fabled Academy of Design and the inspiration for the controversial film Arte-misia and Susan Vree-land’s The Passion of Artemisia, is elegant, daring, alluring, surprising, festive, harmonious, warm, inviting, and just plain worth every minute, and every morsel, of each visit.
Tucked away on Pleasant Street in the Calderwood building (at one time a bakery and now housing a number of artists’ studios), Artemisia now offers dinner (Thurs-day through Saturday) as well as lunch.
Most of the popular noontime offerings–a terrific array of salads and uncommon sandwiches–are available at dinner, along with more industrious entrees such as the grilled pork loin with fresh pineapple man-go chutney ($17.95), spinach and ricotta ravioli ($16.95), and pan-seared salmon coated with sesame seeds on a bed of fresh cucumbers topped with sweet soy glaze and pickled ginger ($18.95).
On our visit we savored the grilled steak salad. The rich flavor of thinly sliced, flame- grilled New York sirloin strip steak, cooked exactly as ordered (medium rare), mixed well with fresh greens, crispy red and green peppers, cucumbers, red onion, tomatoes, and a marvelous creamy dressing and gorgonzola cheese topping ($8.95).
The sweet potato sandwich ($6.95) is a favorite here, and for good reason. The wonderful avocado spread brings out the flavors perfectly. Served on delectable multigrain bread, the grilled slices of sweet potato are enlivened by a pentimento of sprouts, red onion, tomato.
I couldn’t resist the Tuscan grill, a delectable concoction of grilled portobello mushroom, house-made pesto, and roasted red peppers with a terrific goat cheese spread served on grilled Tuscan bread ($6.95). For .75 you can add grilled chicken or bacon. I chose the chicken, and several slices of moist white meat made for a perfect accompaniment.
Our server, as much a treat as the place itself, charmed us into trying the “fresh from the oven, still warm, ginger chocolate-chip cookie.” Like everything else here, the taste of something seemingly familiar was transformed into something new. At Arte-misia, expect the unexpected–evocative compositions for every palate.
Artemisia Cafe, 61 Pleasant Street, Portland. Brunch Saturday-Sunday; coffee and pastries and lunch Monday-Friday; dinner Thursday-Saturday. 761-0135.
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