September 2009
Ogunquit’s 98 Provence: Venez-vous ici souvent?
Not nearly enough!
Clipping fresh herbs from her lovely gardens as diners approach, Johanne Hazeltine is all Monet in her sun-dappled dress, sang de boeuf against the classic blue doors of 98 Provence in Ogunquit.
Sister to the chef at this family-run establishment, she invites us inside to a whirl of rich paneling, soft lights, and cozy fireplaces that make us wonder if this is the place we’ve dreamed of our whole lives.
This is French cuisine of the highest caliber, created with great care and served simply with ease and panache.
Excited by the atmosphere, we jump into Provençal Herb Gnocchi with Sea Scallops and Golden Sage ($14) and Duck Foie Gras in Pistachio Crust and Haricots Verts with Mustard Cream ($16). Usually, the two of us share. But this sweet custom goes out the window as we guard every bite, dabbing up the succulent sauces with perfect crusty French bread. The Butter Lettuce and Arugula Salad with Lavender Honey-Lime Vinaigrette ($9) continue our countdown to ecstasy.
Specials include fixed-price three course offerings (Provence, $32, Bistro, $36, and Chef’s, $40). Tonight they are all fish (Pappardelle Pasta with Shrimp, Calamari,
and Arugula Cream; Day Boat Cod Braised with Stewed Peppers, Clams, and Chorizo; and Wild Salmon Gratin with Chanterelles, Celeriac, and Tomatoes), so with a touch of whimsy we shift our helm and head for land.
I can’t resist Chef Pierre’s signature Veal Mignon ($32). Over three inches tall and laced with applewood-smoked bacon, the meat is fork tender, its flavor highlighted by an impeccable sauce and wild mushrooms. Savoring this treasure, I’m surprised at my eye roving toward my partner’s Rabbit 3 Ways ($23). With each taste of this dish–Confied Leg, Grilled Sausage, and Sautéed Liver with Chanterelles, my partner exclaims, “It’s as if someone spent a whole day in the kitchen making this food just for me.”
We each enjoy a glass of wine–Perrin Reserve, Cote-du-Rhone, ‘07 ($8.50) and Buried Cane, Washington State, Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘05 ($9)–deeply satisfying with our cheese-plate dessert ($4): Mitibleu, Spanish Sheep’s Milk Blue, Delices de Bourgogne, and French Triple Crème, served with flavorful light bread crisps. Other alluring desserts ($9) include Nougat Glace with Pistachios, Almonds, and Dried Fruits; Cherry and Chocolate Marquise with Hazelnut Praline; Fresh Fruit Sorbets; and Fennel Butter Cookie. Top things off with their very fine espresso or cappuccino, and your evening is completely magnifique!
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