February/March 2013

HAUTE OCTANE

Fuel glows brightly with gourmet French cuisine in Lewiston’s historic Lyceum Hall

By Diane Hudson

We’re fired up over Fuel.

The Lewiston landmark is overwhelmingly popular–even at 5:45 on a Saturday, it’s packed.

One of our quartet orders a birdbath-sized martini while the others opt for a carafe of the house rouge–Parducci pinot noir from California ($14)–to sip as we peruse Fuel’s dinner menu. The adventuresome French country theme includes daily specials such as braised rabbit on Thursdays and sole meunière on Fridays. Frites come in a paper cone, with salt and vinegar or bacon dust.

Fondue ($9) is a fun way to start. The Alsatian classic features hot melted gruyère cheese in a colorful pot; fire keeps it hot as we dip toasted garlic baguette chunks. Roasted oysters ($10) topped with creamed bacon, leeks, and breadcrumbs are a hit, as is the Caesar salad ($6), crunchy  greens with just the right amount of dressing. Pork belly rillettes ($8) is a rich pâté in a crock with toast points, mixed greens and pickled grapes.

The coq au vin ($19) transports us from our first bite (actually, inhaling the aroma is enough)–pure French heaven. The Free Bird Farms chicken, braised in red wine with cipollini onions, mushrooms, bacon, and fingerling potatoes, is moist,  memorable, and smoky.

Braising is big here, so I opt for beef short ribs ($26), though it’s hard to resist the balsamic braised pork shank ($21). The beef is fork tender, nicely accented with wild mushrooms, wilted spinach, and fine whipped parsnips that are incredible with deeply flavorful pan juices .

Steak au poivre ($28) is Angus NY strip with a brilliant cognac and veal reduction, perfect with peppery arugula greens and rosemary-roasted red potatoes. Scallops ($24), huge little beasties, are nicely browned while retaining full taste and moisture, served with a delicious pumpkin risotto.

Desserts are too good to miss, especially perfectly crusted pistachio crème brulée ($6). Here’s to our next rendezvous.

Fuel, 49 Lisbon St., Lewiston. Tues. – Thurs., 5-9 p.m.,
Fri. & Sat., 5-10p.m., 333-3835, fuelmaine.com