Best Wurst in Town!

Schulte & Herr’s classic German küche warms the heart.

By Diane Hudson

We met in my hometown of Paderborn [250 miles west of Berlin] while Brian was backpacking in Europe,” says Schulte & Herr co-owner Steffi Davin.  “We married and worked in restaurants in Berlin for nearly a decade before crossing the Atlantic to Northampton, Massachusetts, where we worked at Green Street Cafe near Smith College.” A romantic resolution in a trendy town. “Then we discovered Portland. You have the ocean!”

They launched their dream, Schulte & Herr, in August 2011, featuring dishes straight out of Steffi’s childhood: for example, her  Rheini­scher Sauerbraten (marinated beef roast,  $18) and potato pancakes with applesauce and sour cream ($5) convey her memories directly to diners. No wonder reservations are a must in this intimate space seating just 24.

We tip Saturday night on end with sips of  the Gerwurtztraminer we couldn’t resist bringing (for now, it is BYOB here, with a full bar under consideration). The wine’s light citrus flavors  complement our appetizers: Zwiebelkuchen–a caramelized onion and gruyère tart ($5), and smoked trout ($7). More like a quiche in texture, with an amazing custard-like filling, the tart is a knockout. The trout’s flavors hit a perfect harmony with accompanying arugula, tiny slivers of radish, crisp pickled beets, and potato slices, flavorfully dressed.

My ever-carnivorous partner has no trouble deciding on Wurstplatte, featuring handmade bratwurst, kielbasa, and smoked ham ($17.50). All prepared at the Sausage Kitchen in Lisbon Falls, the meats deeply satisfy–and they’re gluten-free with no preservatives or fillers. The sauerkraut, sourced locally as well, from Morse’s in Waldoboro, is braised here with bacon, juniper, and caraway. Almost buttery, there is none of the expected acidity. Also on the plate is an understated German potato salad, served, surprisingly (to me) slightly chilled.  The Belgian-style ale we’ve brought stands up well to these robust flavors.

Settling on the Schweineschnitzel, a thinly pounded pork loin entree ($16), I am not disappointed. Each thin slice of golden breaded, fried loin tastes better than the last. Mushroom gravy is available for an extra dollar; I recommend requesting it served on the side so as to keep the crumb coating on the meat crisp. Fresh lemon is the alternative. Tantalizing sides beckon; we share a bowl of delicious roasted red and golden beets ($4).

No debate when it comes to dessert–there is only one choice! Tonight’s ginger molasses cake with maple pumpkin compote and a dollop of velvety whipped cream makes a perfect finish to a feast–and an experience to remember and repeat.

Schulte & Herr
349 Cumberland Ave., Portland
Brunch: Wed-Fri, 11:30 a.m. -2 p.m.;
Sat-Sun, 8 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner (BYOB): Wed-Sun, 5 p.m.-9 p.m.

773-1997, schulteundherr.wordpress.com