Drawing return visitors perennially during the all too short but splendid summer’s lease, this time honored treasure demands planning: make reservations. Also, if you wish to have a leisurely sit-down with your cocktails on the magnificent front porch, allow time before your scheduled seating: they run a tight ship here.

Which is understandable. Only so many tables, and lots of competition to enjoy them. We did make time to sip and savor, thankfully, sharing the gorgeous columned veranda with folks from Dallas celebrating their 60th anniversary. It’s that kind of place.

From the breezy live piano to the silver and bronze lobster sculptures, deep-blue water goblets, windows sporting stained glass and jewelled baubles, and a terrific display of seascapes by artist-owner Jack Nahil and others whose work he’s collected over the years, few restaurants capture late summer as playfully as the Cape Arundel Inn.

How better than to begin with a “Three- Coast Sampler” of chilled Maine lobster, gulf shrimp, and Alaskan king crag legs, served with a Palette of Accompaniments ($17)? The crab surprised me–very sweet and tender, with lots of meat in those long legs!

The palette refers to a range of colors in an artistic display: coconut lime, cabernet aioli, and the standard red cocktail sauce. We made quick work of the flavorful coconut lime, my companion spreading it liberally on very good sourdough/rosemary bread (baked here).

Dazzled by entrees like lazy lobster sautéed in chardonnay butter in a whiskey-and-wild-mushroom beurre blanc (market price) and pan-seared prime sirloin steak au poivre with Maine lobster-stuffed potato ($43), we (yes, we couldn’t help but share!) opted for the duck breast ($33), marinated in plum wine. It was sensuously delicious, with a filo stuffed with succulent duck confit, complemented by scallion-whipped potatoes and rhubarb honey demi-glace. Our grilled duo of lamb chops ($38) absolutely hit the spot, too, accompanied by garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed summer veggies including carrots, red pepper, and crunchy greens.

For libations, we loved the Nine Stones Shiraz, a bargain at $7 a generous glass. Dessert wines, too, are tempting and include a Beaulieu Vinyards Muscat ($8) and Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes ‘94 (350 ml, $215).

Still on my mind: our triple chocolate tasting of dark rum almond truffles, raspberry chocolate mousse with butter cookies, and a chilled caramel-chocolate latte.

Oh, yes–and you can see England from the front porch.