Singular Sensations

By Diane Hudson

Solo Bistro has you at buon giorno, with its friendly lighting, Angela Adams hooked rugs hanging from warm brick walls, brightly colored chairs, crafted wood tables, and engaging staff.

The eclectic international cuisine here is “fusion,” according to Chef Tony Lavelle, who lights up the menu with a sensual array of spices “from the Pacific Northwest, southeast Asia, and the layered flavors of Mexico.”

Because it’s our anniversary, my partner (with a sparkle in his eyes) can’t resist asking for the Cold River Shiver (vodka, gin, rum, tequila, Cointreau, and a splash of cranberry-lime soda, $10) to conjure up an early, romantic canoe trip of ours. As we tried to “put out,” we found Parlin Stream frozen solid, so the drink’s quite appropriate to the occasion.

Which invites the question: Is a restaurant’s true character proportionate to the memories it evokes?

Run this up against Winter Point oysters on the half shell, and you have a genius pairing. These New Meadows gems are eye-openers, swimming in a lemon, red onion, caper, and Champagne-vinegar mignonette (five, $12).

Next up, a cacophony of Bangs Island mussels ($10), large and meaty, basking in a pleasantly piquant sauce of coconut milk, red curry, and basil. Don’t forget to order the grilled flatbread with these–lightly salted and perfect for dipping into the curry sauce.

Pillar Box Red ($26), a fine Australian Cabernet Shiraz, strikes a perfect balance with these bold flavors.

The grilled swordfish ($23), inventively skewered on rosemary stalks, is a smashing success. Add the counterpoint of tangy sultana-and-pine-nut chutney, and you’re approaching a singular sensation. Tonight’s nightly sides are gorgeous garlic-mashed Keuka Gold potatoes from Goranson Farm in Dresden and grilled asparagus spears.

My partner lands a lobster pot pie ($26). Created from the delicious fresh meat of a whole lobster, this feast is lavished with potatoes, carrot and tarragon cream sauce  topped with a round pastry. He mentions he’d prefer the crust a bit flakier, but is there a smidgen left on his plate?

Dessert, a rustic fruit tartlet made with raspberries, peaches, and topped with wonderful homemade vanilla ice cream ($7), sends us to the stars.

Solo Bistro
128 Front St., Bath
Tues-Sat, Lunch, 11:30-2 p.m.
Dinner, 5 to close, 443-3373