reviewed by Diane Hudson – May 05
I was just six years old when I attended my first Yarmouth Clam Festival, says Stephanie Brown. Today, as owner of the trendy SeaGrass Bistro, her celebration is year-round.
A chef for 16 years, Brown studied at New York’s Culinary Institute of America, then went on to gain experience at the Broadmoor Hotel and Resort in Colorado Springs and the Ritz Carlton in Boston. She knows what it takes to be part of a four-star restaurant, and sheπs certainly brought a raft of stars here.
Both menu and dining space are small and inviting amplified by ornate mirrors that conjure up the Moulin Rouge. The wine list confidently offers four whites and five reds. We enjoyed the Chateau Moulin Peyronin Bordeaux, competitively priced ($20 a bottle).
First courses sizzle here. The grilled Maple Bourbon Shrimp with Chipolte-Pepper-Infused Oil ($7), three flavorful medium sized gulf shrimp garnished with gorgeous greens, is exciting; the baby spinach salad ($6) is divine. Crumbled goat cheese throughout blends perfectly with the crisp and tender greens, ginger maple beets, julienne parsnips, and Ponzu vinaigrette. Brown’s secret? “Enhance the flavor: donπt disguise it.”
Next, we gorged ourselves on a robust and completely satisfying vegetarian concoction ($17) consisting of slow-roasted tomatoes, perfectly cooked tender flageolets, a terrific grilled portabella mushroom and other veggies, and tomato coulis. An excellent spring roll filled with basil-infused long grain rice was the perfect accompaniment to this adventure.
We also shared the Grilled Pork Loin ($25) wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon, with candied red onions, rice, and scrumptious spinach. Unfailingly perfect in each dish, the greens alone make dining here a distinct pleasure. The pork was topped with sweet potato crisps, thin shavings of potato fried to a good texture.
Desserts, prepared by the Ferry Village Bake Shop of South Portland excepting Anita’s chocolate cake, made at SeaGrass are elegant and simple.
Tuscan cheesecake with blueberry compote with orange essence ($5), light and just sweet enough, was the perfect finish to a memorable culinary experience at SeaGrass. I never thought of it, but I guess sea grass looks beautiful under the stars.
SeaGrass Bistro, Forest Falls Road, Yarmouth. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, from 5:30. 846-3885.
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