reviewed by Diane Hudson Oct 2002
On the evening of our visit to Mark Loring’s (Walter s) new passion, Saltwater Grille – formerly Channel Crossing – the sun was just starting to set over an unparalleled Portland skyline view, and the coolness of autumn did not deter our choosing a table outside on the new welcoming deck.
Right away, the Mussels appetizer, $7.95 for a big, overflowing bowl, knocked us out.
Better yet, simmered in tomato, garlic, and shallot broth, these tender morsels created succulent flavors that blended particularly well with our Roasted Red Pepper Caesar Salad, generously garnished with tasty Asiagocheese ($6.50).
The Saltwater Grille Saute, a vegetarian entree consisting of sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and calamata olives tossed in white wine caper sauce, served over angel hair pasta, and topped with chevre ($14.95), was subtle in flavor and satisfying. This entree can be prepared with chicken or shrimp for an extra $3. Steamed Maine Lobster, served with mussels and corn, is always available, as is Poached Halibut in a tomato herb broth ($18.95), Potato Encrusted Filet of Haddock ($16.95), and Scallops Carbonara ($17.95). We ordered the Grilled Filet Mignon ($21.95), a generous piece of hand-cut tenderloin cooked exactly as requested. It was covered in a thick mushroom gravy, perfectly accompanied by house-mashed Red Bliss potatoes and grilled broccoli. The broccoli was a bit tough, but the meat could not have been more tender. Marinated Pork Loin ($15.95), grilled medallions of pork with a tasty herb pepper sauce served with hearty mashed potatoes and an excellent assortment of grilled vegetables, could easily have satisfied the two of us as a shared entree. All was enhanced by a ‘Windv lerlot($19), i from the nsive wine menu ranging from Copperidge W^hite Zinfandel ($16) to Argyle Reserve ($50). A wonderful sourdough bread made in-house and served throughout the meal was also a big hit. We didn’t think we could imagine a dessert until our server, who was most attentive throughout, whispered Katie-Made Carrot Cake with Caramel Cream Cheese Frosting, Strawberry Rhubarb Pie, and Cappuccino Swirl Cheesecake ($5.95).
Sharing the splendid cheesecake, we continued to savor a perfect night out in a perfect setting.
231 Front Street, South Portland. Open seven davs a week, serving lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Reservations accepted. (207) 799-5400, www.saltwatergrille.com
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