May 2012

Whistle Stop

When you pull into Brunswick Station, prepare for the coast’s freshest seafood.

by Diane Hudson

Lured from Boston to Maine by Olympia Companies (Inn by the Sea, Hilton Garden Inn), Tavern at Brunswick Station’s chef Kevin Cunningham offers insanely attractive variations on seafood favorites. Having grown up in the seacoast town of Quincy, Massachusetts, Cunningham developed his fondness for fish early on and loves working with the catch from the colder waters of Maine.

Take the fresh crab cakes, for example (market, $16-18). They’re not your usual super-breaded concoctions (“Where’s the crab?”). These treasures are made with the finest meat available, a smidgen of mayo, and dusting of bread crumbs. A zingy Cajun Remoulade and crisp greens with balsamic glaze hit the spot.

Vegetarian and vegan friendly soups thrive here. Our grilled zucchini and summer squash is full-bodied, as is Cunningham’s delightfully light clam chowder ($4/$7).

Next up, a charcuterie and cheese board ($9). The house-made pâté wows, as does savory smoked gouda and a startlingly good fruit compote. Our Australian Billi Billi shiraz ($28), selected from a competitively priced wine list, complements well.

Pan-seared to perfection, the scallops ($27), nicely tweaked with a vanilla citrus aioli, are served on carrot parsnip fritters. Accompanied by delectable sweet potato purée, these nuggets of pure sea goodness please deep down.

The fish and chips ($18) put an exclamation point on Cunningham’s love for seafood. The locally caught hake is heartbreakingly tender, grease-free in the lightest beer (PBR) batter ever.

Richly flavored with lots of pan juices, his braised beef short ribs ($25) sport garlic-mashed red bliss potatoes and garlic-sautéed haricots verts. There’s so much taste and texture here, you’ll want to go right out and try to cook it, because you’ll want it again and soon.

A menu staple, risotto ($15) changes daily and can be prepared vegan. Today it’s puréed pea and mint. Exquisite flavors come through the fine, soft texture.

For dessert, what says summer better than cheese cake with puréed strawberries and fresh whipped cream ($7)?

Whether your Brunswick visit includes a mid-coast train excursion on the Maine Eastern Railroad, a visit to Bowdoin College, Maine State Music Theatre, or a shopping spree, be sure to enjoy the fine flavors at the Tavern. With its go-to status, it’s bound to please contemporary rusticators and natives alike.

Tavern at Brunswick Station
4 Noble St., Brunswick
Sun-Thur, 8-8p.m.,
Fri-Sat, 8-10p.m.
Sat & Sun Brunch, 10-2 p.m. 837-6565