reviewed by Diane Hudson December 2003
Lively, spirited Ribollita, decidedly Italian, may be the perfect place to spend the darkest days of the year, especially if you take advantage of the house wines. The red is a good, clean Italian at a really decent price ($18) served in a festive ceramic rooster, its beak the spout. The tops of the white-cloth-covered tables are protected by inconspicuous sheets of white paper, so thereπs no guilt when you spill. Maybe that captures lo spirito of this place: Ribollita translates to ≥twice boiled,≤ referring to the traditional Tuscan soup of that name, a reheated minestrone from the previous day mixed with chunks of bread ≠ a hearty, warming dish.
This joint is packed. In spite of this, our request to try some half servings (the menu being so full of goodies) was met with an unexpected delight to deliver.
Starting with the crunchy huge Heart of Romaine Salad with walnuts, gorgonzola, and pancetta ($5.25) is a brilliant inspiration, particularly when paired with the Tortellini en Brodo ($3.75), a flavorful clear chicken-broth soup with handmade tortellini stuffed with ricotta and spinach.
Diving into half portions of Pan-Seared Gnocci (with prosciutto and fresh, raw pea pods, $10.95) and Shrimp Carbonara (with artichokes, pancetta, cream, and fettuccine $14.95), we hit a resplendent note, dreamlike wafts of arias filling the air. ≥People come here just for the gnocci,≤ chef-owner Kevin Quiet notes.
Continuing our investigation, we couldnπt resist the Pan-Seared Ribeye ($15.75). Basking in a chianti and roasted garlic sauce ≠ and served with a dollop of extra-good mashed potatoes and a fine vegetable medley of fresh zuccini, summer squash, Tuscan kale, and rapini ≠ this entrÈe is the best weπve had in months. Tender and bursting with flavor, the generous, perfectly-cooked cut of beef is downright heavenly.
Dessert was impossible to resist. The huge, velvety Vanilla Bean Flan ($5.50) with light caramel sauce was plenty for both of us, but for our next visit we plan to gorge on the Maple and Mascarpone Cheesecake and handmade Espresso Ice Cream.
We suggest making reservations early, particularly on weekends.
Ribollita, 41 Middle Street, Portland. 774-2972
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