reviewed by Diane Hudson Dec. 2003
We just spent a dazzling evening at Jeffrey Leber’s newly-opened Old Port Sea Grill on the Portland waterfront in the beautifully renovated W.D. Blake Building.
Its the Portland incarnation of his popular Fal mouth Sea Grill at Handy Boat Yard in Falmouth Foreside.
Here, with vast floor-to-ceiling glass windows facing the waterfront and U.S. Customs House, and a spacious dining area comfortably seating 100-plus, the Old Port Sea Grill beckons to all passersby along busy Commercial Street.
The interior shimmers with oil paintings, a polished concrete bar stippled with inlaid melted marbles, and a gigantic 600-gallon living coral reef aquarium, and so does the food, logically enough, since Leeber is a former exec at Legal Seafood.
Our palates were on alert from the first, thanks to the Sea Grill’s signature complimentary smoked salmon pate, served immediately to us upon being seated and accompanied by hot, crusty buns reminiscent of French bread.
Appealing appetizers abound, including mussels ($12.95), steamers ($13.95), and fried calamari ($6.95). One might start with a sampling from the raw bar, featuring Damariscotta, Spinney Creek, and Blue Point oysters ($9.95).
Our server, however, described an appetizer special of the evening ($10.95) that was totally irresistible: Imagine a plate resplendent with the freshest, largest pink shrimp; tuna tartare nicely snuggled into crisp endive leaves; beautiful white anchovies marinated in white balsamic vinegar, olive oil and herbs; a plethora of delicious smoked salmon rosettes decorating the middle on top of marvelously marinated cucumber and white onion; egg whites and yolks finely grated and set into the design; and Iranian caviar, delicate little green eggs popping with the freshest flavor ever: splendid!
The Falmouth Sea Grill is noted for its wood-grilled Arctic Char ($17.95), prepared with either a light lemon herb vinaigrette or Cajun seasoning. To my delight, I found the latter to be subtle, serving to bring out the complex flavors of this wonderful fish.
Our wine, a Tyrell Shiraz ($22) selected from a highly-eclectic, innovative list including Napa Valley’s Spottswoode Cabernet ($140) and Domaine Amiot Chassagne Montrachet ($75), nicely St complemented our dinners, particularly mine, the Applewood Grilled New Zealand Lamb, marinated in a puree of goose berries, cinnamon, honey, garlic, soy, and olive oil |ji ($26.95). This was an enormous portion of lovely single bone chops, cooked to perfection and towering over yummy, home-style mashed potatoes. I cannot imagine it getting much better than this. Unless you fast-forward to the large and lovely Creme Brulee ($6.95), already legendary at the Foreside location, and just one more rea- aai son to consider Old Port Sea Grill a wonderful new addition to Portland’s roster of exquisite eateries.
Old Port Sea Grill, 93 Commercial St., Portland. Lunch and dinner seven days a week. 879-6100.
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