Reviewed by Colin Sargent – SummerGuide 2003
With a name like Muddy Rudder, youπd imagine this restaurant to be stuck in time – the 1970s – perhaps a fixture for tourists on their way up Route 1 and L.L. Bean.
But were we delighted when we stopped recently and enjoyed the newly renovated dining room, massive windows on the marsh, and cathedral ceilings. The new Muddy Rudder has been spiffed up to an enviable standard, led by its delicious menu.
First and foremost, the Crab Bisque is eason enough for a stop here. Itπs showstoppingly delicious, with moist threads of fresh, sweet Maine crabmeat in cream enlivened by just the right amount of sherry, somehow managing to be both sinfully rich and light at the same time.
This is absolutely worth the trip on its own, and my partner and I could easily have made a meal of the soup and the homemade rolls (very crispy on the outside and soft on the inside) and butter alone.
But alas, there was work to be done. If nothing else, we have a strong sense of purpose. We plunged into the Lobster Cobb Salad. At $16.99, it seemed a really good deal, because it appeared to have the meat of at least two one-pound lobsters inside, in generous, caught-this-morning chunks.
The succulent lobster, combined with the crisp, salty bacon; metallic clang of black olives; tart tomatoes; sharp green onions mixed with delicate lettuce greens; and Monterey Jack cheese, topped with an appropriately tangy Thousand Island dressing, to satisfy our desire for different tastes and textures so deeply it was sure to induce future cravings. Other entrees include Seafood SautÈ ≠ lobster, shrimp, and scallops sautÈed with mushrooms, red and green peppers, black olives, and red onion in olive oil, garlic, lobster stock, white wine, and parmesan cheese tossed with tomato basil fettuccine, $18.99.
Thereπs also Italian Haddock, Crab & Lobster Cakes served with remoulade, enormous Downeast Clambakes, a Fisherman Platter ($16.99), a Salmon Fillet poached in lobster butter ($15.99), and more, with everything wonderfully presented by a friendly, efficient staff. We canπt pretend we had the desserts because the portions were so generous, so weπll have to climb the Muddy Sundae ($3.99) another time. Thereπs also Pineapple Walnut Bread Pudding, Ice Cream Puff, and Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie. Through it all, there was lovely live piano music and the knowledge that we could have arrived here by boat and tied up here, tides permitting. Itπs nice to see a restaurant stuck on quality but never stuck in time. For reservations, call 846-3082.
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