reviewed by Diane Hudson October 2006
When you’re stricken with a maki attack, we know where you can go to satisfy a major yen for sushi: Miyako, upstairs on Main Street in Freeport.
On our recent visit, we savored a very good, traditional miso soup ($1.75 bowl) and soft-shell crab in tempura batter ($7). The light crispy crust enhanced, rather than smothered, the distinct flavors of this delicacy.
Next came an incredibly delicious beef tataki ($5.25). The thinly sliced rare beef is served with a ponzu sauce (rice vinegar, soy sauce, sake, seaweed and dried bonito flakes) and a mound of fresh, thin-sliced daikon radish and tomato.
Excited, we charged into the shrimp dumplings, Age Shu-Mai ($4.50), elegant crispy fried small balls bursting with flavor and served with a sharply satisfying mustard soy sauce–as was the Ohitashi ($3.50), boiled fresh spinach prepared in dense, delicious rolls, topped with bonito flakes.
For our entrée, we shared Joh Sushi ($19), a colorful platter of 17 sushi adventures including California maki, maguro (tuna), sake (salmon), ebi (shrimp), tako (octopus), hamachi (yellowtail), ikura (salmon egg), shiromi (red snapper), unagi (eel), hookigai (raw whelk), and ika (squid). Our favorites were shrimp, salmon, tuna, yellowtail, and salmon egg, all enhanced with the standard accompaniments of wasabi, soy sauce, and pickled ginger.
One thing you can’t get here is lobster sashimi. Co-owner Tommy Ng says,“We won’t serve that because of all the children coming here. When you cut the lobster, you need to present it immediately and it arrives at the table alive. It would scare them, I think…”
Well, yes.
In any case, we savored nine small courses, all carefully prepared and gracefully presented, over a period of three hours. On another occasion, as a break from shopping, I was able to slip in a delicious lunch in less than an hour. At Miyako, you set the pace.
Miyako, 23 Main Street, Freeport. Lunch every day 11-2:30; dinner 5-9:30 Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 Friday-Saturday. 865-6888
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