Winterguide 2012

Method Dining

Nestled close to Portland Stage Co., Katahdin delivers on a promised performance.

By Diane Hudson

Walk into Katahdin, climb onto a comfy leather bar stools, and enjoy amazing drinks crafted by mixologist Winnie Moody. Straight-up martinis fill traditional glasses accompanied by a neatly chilled mini carafe with more. Sip on Brooklyn Chocolate Stout ($6) or Little Black Dress Merlot ($8 a glass, $32 a bottle) while munching on goat cheese tart ($10) or pizzetta with cauliflower, fontina, smoked bacon, and arugula ($12).

Or, make reservations, as we did, and command a private table on the upper level where, voyeur-like, you sneak peeks of the theater crowd and their entertainments at the bar almost directly under you. Like the fine paintings and art that surprises here, this unique view, warmed by tall ceilings and a full-length brick wall, offers a feast for the eyes and senses. As does the food.

Right from the get-go we enjoy a bowlful of olive oil drizzled with tasty balsamic vinegar and focaccia-style bread for dipping. Savoring this fully, my partner sopped up three servings (no extra charge).

Next, we slalom through a pretty salad of tasty organic greens topped with a mountain of thinly sliced Northern Spy apples, dotted with walnuts and Acadia blue vinaigrette ($9).

The major draw here, aside from the gorgeous bar and glamor perspective, is the wood grilling. Firing up with almond, oak, and apple wood, chef and owner Becky Lee Simmons puts out some mighty mean fare, including my hanger steak ($26). A sure-fire winner, succulent slices of tender meat cooked exactly as requested (for me rare, and Simmons nailed it) are complemented with scrumptious potato purée, braised greens, and rich, bounteous steak jus.

Also a hit is the 8-ounce, in-house ground sirloin burger ($14), cooked to order, served with a tangy, clangy sour pickle and sweet potato fries. Oh, those fries! Thin, crisp, melt-in your-mouth-goodness. Try them dipped in the balsamic vinegar-olive oil mix.

The pomegranate directs dessert. Unlike other fruits with year-round availability, the pomegranate is, like cranberries, is startlingly seasonal. It has a distinct, penetrating flavor, and a mound of in-house pomegranate ice cream ($9) has everything to be desired of the fruit without the hassle of the seeds.

This storefront immediately beside the entrance where knowing audiences flood into Portland Stage Co. has been home to a string of legendary restaurants, including Alberta’s II and Swan Dive. Tonight, it’s Katahdin’s star turn, engaging its audience on all levels and hitting some dizzy heights and high notes.