reviewed by Diane Hudson May 2008
Good Food Bar None
Bar Lola is a knockout in the East End.
Seated at the crest of Munjoy Hill as Congress Street plunges toward the Eastern Prom, Bar Lola, the newest of the new up here, is delighting crowds of excited diners.
We just closed our eyes with pleasure upon devouring the warm, tasty, small squares of bread we were treated with barely after sitting down. Served in a gorgeous piece of pottery with olive oil and herbs for dipping, the “luna” squares are handmade by Steve Lanzalotta, the baker at Micucci’s.
For wine, we chose an immensely affordable high-quality Amira Cabernet Franc Paarl from South Africa (2004) ($6 glass, $22 bottle). It was a perfect accompaniment.
Next up, a squadron of Portuguese Sardines ($4). Served with thin, tasty house-made crackers and a nifty hot sauce, these satisfied us greatly, as did the light and lovely Maine shrimp frittata with chile and lime ($4). Garlic fans, or anybody seeking fullness of flavor in a dish: Do not miss the roasted eggplant and garlic purée ($3). Also earning raves: the olives with fresh herbs ($3) and the Charcuterie plate with cornichon and whole-grain mustard ($5).
The succulent braised rabbit, served with spaetzle, tarragon, and pan-roasted vegetables including deliciously sweet parsnips, melted in our mouths (this is absolutely a restaurant for sharing). Another “wow” experience is the handmade ravioli with sofrita and a delicately seasoned stuffing. “We make and roll the ravioli ourselves,” says co-owner/chef Guy Hernandez, “stuffed with mortadella, spinach, garlic, and a little chicken breast poached in white wine.”
But we weren’t finished! We gorged on the duck ($15), a pan-seared breast done to perfect medium rare. The tender slices sported just enough cabbage, chestnuts, and cider glaze to kick things well into the level of performance art.
The banana crêpes with caramel sauce and fresh whipped cream ($5)–absolutely heavenly–and a trio of select cheeses ($6, the selection may vary) accompanied by aged balsamic, a homemade mostarda of dried apricots, and delicious dried fig purée, sent us out this door anxious to tell everyone we can about this new restaurant’s magnetic appeal. Go East; mecca awaits.
Bar Lola, 100 Congress Street, Portland. Dinner Wednesday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Reservations strongly suggested. Wine Dinner May 13 includes a 5-course meal with wine pairing ($65 includes tax and gratuity). 775-5652 or www.barlola.net
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