July/August 2011

By Diane Hudson

In the Zone

After-work oasis is defining the city’s studio area as its own District.

District’s assistant manager, Justin Roig, loves the seven-month-old bistro’s new format change. “We see ourselves as the go-to place for locals who enjoy straightforward, good eats in a friendly, casual environment.”

We begin with steamed local mussels ($10) in a subtle broth with hints of lime, cilantro, red onion, and chiles. We simultaneously enjoy a silky slice of perfectly seared foie gras ($13), garnished with a sweet-pear-and-golden-raisin chutney.

After a great Caesar salad ($9)–delicious with shaved Reggiano–we dig into the rigatoni ($14) with tangy, grilled radicchio, cubes of pancetta, and pecorino.

My partner, always stalking the finest burger around, selects the Bacon Cheeseburger with tomato jam ($12), served to his exacting specifications–“no bread, burger medium rare.” They get it right, and so does he.

My 13-oz. grilled ribeye ($28) is also perfectly cooked, accompanied by sautéed mushrooms and sweet onions. It’s “your choice of sides,” excellent partners like grilled asparagus, roasted fingerlings, or green bean almondine.

A bottle of 2008 Bigi Vipra Rossa Umbria ($26)–a blend of merlot, sangiovese, and Montepulciano–complements the food nicely. On the stronger side, creative cocktails abound, such as Blueberries for Sal (blueberries, mint, rum, simple syrup, soda, $11).

Similar artistry sculpts the night’s culinary encore. Desserts ($8) include a bourbon root beer float and pineapple upside down cake with dark rum and ginger cream.

District, 45 Danforth Street, Portland

Open Monday–Friday, 11:30 a.m.–midnight;
Saturday, 5 p.m.–midnight; Sunday,
10.30 a.m.–3:30 p.m., 5 p.m.–midnight

761-7778, districtportland.me