Sonnets from the Portuguese
The new Local 188: Bohemian joie de vivre, Catalonian gusto.
reviews by Diane Hudson Nov 2007
Bigger is resoundingly better, especially where popular eateries serving lusty Catalonian cuisine are concerned.
Pulsing with energy and filled with diners enjoying the new surroundings at 685 Congress Street, Local 188’s famous tapas ($6 each), far from being bistro-scratched across a chalkboard, now shimmer invitingly across a big mirror in a scroll reminiscent of a Toulouse-Lautrec interior in Montmartre.
Hungry, we tear into both the liver and the ribs tapas with smoky paprika, then free-associate and let the peppers, patatas, white anchovies, olives, manchego, garlic shrimp, mussels (red/white), clams verde, grilled chouriço, and meatballs shape the evening.
According to owner Jay Villani, the menu descriptions for Local 188’s diminutive delights are “deliberately vague,” as the nature of hunting for the city’s freshest ingredients dictates surprise.
“Liver,” he says, could be organic chicken livers, or, as on the evening of our visit, deliciously tender beef liver sautéed with shallots. Also tender and meaty, the ribs make for a hefty appetizer. In fact, many diners opt to forego the first course–greens or pasta–and second course, gorging instead on the luscious and generous tapas.
But then we’d have missed the stupendous Bahia–juicy, spiced pork tenderloin served on a bed of orzo ($17). Asked for the secret ingredients, Villani shrugs, “Oh, you know, a Brazilian/African rub: ginger, coriander, cumin, orange zest, allspice, a little of this and that.”
Same goes for my partner’s phenomenal seared linguini with panchetta, leeks, tomato, light cream, and parmesan reggiano ($15); complex in flavor, it’s delightfully rich in cheese overtones. Sharing and swapping dishes here is a must.
Of course you might also try the popular Paella ($19), truly a sonnet from the Portuguese with cockles, chouriço, and beans ($14), or Moroccan spiced roasted market vegetables over Lebanese cous-cous ($15).
‘Local’ features a full bar, too, highlighted by elegantly painted surfaces and walls by artists Patrick Corrigan and Jennifer Gardiner, and an eclectic collection of beer and wine, from Pabst Blue Ribbon ($2) to Bellhaven Scottish Ale ($4.75). Wines run the gamut from French, Italian, Spanish, German, and Argentinian to Australian and Californian. There are good ports, sherry, sake, and dessert wine.
Desserts are made on-site and include Tres Leches and an outstanding traditional Spanish flan ($7): the perfect finish to an extraordinary dinner in a festive, upbeat environment.
We’re loco for Local! These bodacious tapas are truly poetry in motion.
Local 188, 685 Congress Street, Portland. Dinner seven days, lunch Monday-Friday, brunch Saturday-Sunday. 761-7909.
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