reviewed by Diane Hudson Feb/Mar 2004
J’s Oyster, a popular Portland waterfront destination since its opening in 1977, has a wonderful tradition since that time: every year, for the entire month of February, Jπs hands out free oysters to all of its diners. “It’s shucking unbelievable,” we’ve heard one oyster lover say, enjoying his feast. But don’t enjoy the oysters and miss the pearl: There is simply no place in Portland quite like J’s.
Sitting at the window right at the head of a wharf filled with winter-wrapped pleasure boats, we watch as the nightπs darkening illuminates the warm glow of lights in some of the vessels. The fact that there are no blueblooded oysters here (when asked what variety of oysters we were ordering, the server said simply, “Chesapeake Bay” is not a damper to the experience. Portlanders have a number of places to go for those littleneck clams and premium oyster choices, but Jπs resonance comes from its being in the heart of the living, working waterfront for 27 years, with some of Portlandπs most colorful individuals its patrons (Gary Merrill, Jon Legere, attorney Dan Lilley, whose office is next door). The energy smacks of people who simply get a kick out of life.
J’s makes you want to try a little of everything. My partner selected a pint of draft Guinness ($3.50) and I enjoyed a perfect dry Beefeater martini resplendent with oodles of olives ($5.50). We tried the oysters in their varied dressings, oysters Mornay, Rockefeller, baked stuffed and nude and raw. All are fun and festive, the Rockefeller preparation having a good amount of tasty fresh spinach. The absolute highlight of our meal, the oyster stew ($6.25, cup $8.50, bowl), conjured up memories of a fine meal at Treadway Inn for me, and, for my partner, the kind of dish that would be served at an elegant turn-of-the-century hotel. Luscious, buttery, creamy, and so rich in flavor as to be eminently unforgettable, the substantial dish was literally laden with oysters. Served with those wonderful traditional oyster crackers (yes, the little round ones that come in plastic baggies), this stew is nothing short of superb. The fish chowder ($4.95, $5.95) is another winner. We devoured an entrÈe, Crabby Janice ($15.95), sporting a mound of spinach and cheese, quite a lot of bread crumbs, and tasty strands of crabmeat throughout, and scored it nearly as high as the stew. It was served with a wonderful fresh salad of sliced romaine lettuce, fresh tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, and a very satisfying Blue Cheese dressing. The white bread buns were nicely warmed, served with good, soft pats of butter. A scrumptious Lobster Pernod with fettucini is an amazing value at $16.95.
As the full menu is served from 11 a.m. until midnight, J’s (now serving without smoke!) offers a good choice for eclectic-menu (from hamburgers, $5, to steamed clams, $9.95 to $16.95, or a full lobster dinner) late-night dining in Portland.
J’s Oyster, 5 Portland Pier, Portland, 772-4828.
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