Summerguide 2011

By Diane Hudson

Postcards From Bologna

Theme dinners at Arrows let you travel the world and return to Ogunquit in time to catch a show.

Arrows is going places. Tonight it’s Bologna.

And we gorge ourselves from the get-go with sumptuous gnocchi, lovingly formed rounds sautéed to perfection, sporting buttery black truffle oil, a smattering of Parmesan cheese, sea salt (so tangy), and a surprise hit of slightly singed lovage. Entertaining our taste buds even further are the big-flavored-yet-diminutive “Mousseron,” jewel-sized mushrooms foraged nearby today and so valuable they’re sold by the ounce.

In close formation with our wine flight, the gnocchi is paired with a 2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, its light golden color and flavor matching the dish’s subtleties sparkle for sparkle. Brilliant.

Our explorations continue with Arrows’s 2009 vintage house-cured prosciutto under crisp, fresh-picked baby lettuce. The saltiness of the meat is masterfully mingled with the semi-tart bite of the greens, the melon-like flavor of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and the viscous sweetness of a 10-year balsamic.

Next, we plunge into the mortadella rillette, a ‘high-end’ egg salad with ham, but it’s hardly that pedestrian. The rich flavor and creamy texture spreads nicely on the olive-oil-chive rolls, flatbread, and lemony sorrel leaves.

A gorgeous, house-made pasta Bolognese follows. The delectable, melt-in-your-mouth tagliatelle-style pasta wears a delicately seasoned red sauce with a touch of ground pork and beef. A robust 2007 Fonterutoli Chianti Classico enhances these nicely understated yet enormously satisfying flavors.

Big on personality, the wood-roasted suckling pig and beef-wrapped sausage make their grand entrance next. The rich moment the pork delivers is nothing short of “eureka!” Our server notes the pig has been roasting on the fire at Arrows from early that morning, resulting in the intense smoky flavors and tender texture. It languishes in a deep, dark sauce that begs every drop to be sopped up. A 2008 Poliziano Rosso di Montepulciano is just light enough to enhance the smoky flavors.

The beef-wrapped sausage is a wondrous delight, conjuring up childhood memories of rich, robust meats. Tender flank steak, exuding a red-wine, veal stock reduction, softly fills the palate with substantial flavors, a hint of heat, and the mysteries of perfectly selected herbs.

Accompaniments include a glowing copper pot full of little onions, sweet, sour, pungent and sharp; crisp green beans; and lightly-seared bunches of Arrows’s fresh escarole.

The cheese course is not to be missed. Creamy, silky, house-made Burrata and mild, intricately-flavored Pecorino Tartufo complement the sweet tartness of red grape jam and grilled ciabatta. Bellissimo!

We end on a perfect note with desserts including traditional spiced cake, Modenese rice pudding with bright blood orange slices, and a savory apple cream tart.

You’re a great traveling companion, Arrows; our hearts are suitably pierced.

Upcoming excursions: Delmonico’s in New York City, Provence, and Tuscany.

Arrows Restaurant
41 Berwick Road, Ogunquit
Call for hours 361-1100
arrowsrestaurant.com